beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

Spring corset number two...

Jul. 21st, 2017 10:32 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was so happy with the first springed corset, I decided I needed another one, if time worked out. Although I fit the straps on the green one under the beaded dress, I didn't trust them to stay--they did need to be pinned under the bird dress which has a higher neckline.

So now I have a pale pink one started. The springs are in. It has a flat section at the center back and the straps on either side of that. It'll be interesting to see how it works!

I think I can finish tomorrow...

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

beige bodice again

Jul. 20th, 2017 11:38 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Mostly successfully futzed with the beige bodice today to get it to fit - it's not really 100%, but it's vastly better than before. (And when all's said and done...it's not the most attractive print in the world anyway. So.) I will have to put a wedge in the sleeves to get them to fit, but I didn't have to piece in the front of the armscye, so that's good.
beige bodice front
I didn't get around to actually taking the basting stitches out, cutting lining pieces, and sewing the awkward fixer-pieces in properly...but I'm off tomorrow so I can do it then. (It's definitely going to be too hot to wear this bodice if we do go on Sunday, but I'd like to finish it anyway! Just putting it on and taking it off got me all hot and grumpy. I think I need to acknowledge to myself that just 'cause it's cotton, doesn't make it a Philadelphia-summer-appropriate dress...)
beige bodice side
There are some stupid side wrinkles that I don't think will come out even when the side's reboned, but oh well. I'll just consider myself lucky I could get the damn thing to fit at all and call it a day! Not all home sewers in 1880 had perfectly-fitting bodices, right? ;)

Done!

Jul. 20th, 2017 07:42 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I tried on the suffragette evening dress and decided against basting the skirt and bodice together. It seemed like it would work unbasted, but I pinned it anyway. Then the pins came out a little wonky, and I decided it would be fine.

I needed another tuck in the petticoat. After doing the first five nicely, I did the world's sloppiest tuck above the ruffle. I'm sure it's not the first petticoat to have a giant sloppy tuck.

Then I tried the suffragette day skirt on over the petticoat to see if it would work, and figured I may as well mark the new closures, so those are done. I moved the snap, but just added extra bars instead of moving them.

So, I think everything that has to be done is done. I still want a new hat, but...

Before and After!

Jul. 20th, 2017 05:20 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
2017-07-20_05-20-42 IMG_20170720_171249

Before and after--no tucks and tucks!

I hate making tucks, but as I was doing it, I just reminded myself that adding tucks to a petticoat is much faster than making a new petticoat. And they're pretty!

I think this is short enough to wear with the suffragette evening dress now. And it should be a good length for the day skirt too, so I can pack less. The petticoat and a corset cover is much better for packing than a petticoat and a princess slip! And my new goal is to pack as little as possible so I can take as much extra stash fabric as possible...

Now, closures on the suffragette evening skirt...

(no subject)

Jul. 20th, 2017 01:59 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
I got home from rehearsal 45 mins early yesterday (which meant I got home at about 9:50pm), and made the possibly irresponsible decision to watch at least part of the movie due back at the library today while I cut out pieces for the Beauty and the Beast dress. I was going to just watch half the movie, and just cut the skirt, but then that turned into the whole movie and the whole dress and going to bed just after midnight. Whoops. But at least it's cut out!

My goal for this afternoon is to assemble the entire dress except the zipper (since I'm not going to Joanns till tomorrow). Hopefully I'll even do the hem. And I want to cut out all the organdy pieces for class. I'm thinking that if I cut all that out, I'll be better able to figure out how much muslin I need for all the class pieces, too. I don't think I have much (if any) muslin in the stash, so that will have to wait till after I hit Joanns as well. Then I can cut out the rest of the pieces on Saturday. And pack. And drop off all the stuff that's too big to pack to my roommate, who is driving down and luckily only lives a little over an hour away from me. 

CADD forever

Jul. 20th, 2017 11:49 am
miss_philomena: (Default)
[personal profile] miss_philomena
I can never work on just one project at a time. It's a curse. But I did get a new hoop, TV142 1856 walking cage crinoline, mostly assembled. I made some changes to it, mainly making the hoop wider at the bottom. TV's patterns are set up that the bottom of the hoop is the same for every size, and only the top three hoop circumferences change for differing sizes. So I took put my calculator and mathed to keep that same proportionate increases from the medium size to the extra large size. It gave me a hoop about 130" at the hem instead of 110'. Just chilling in my living room it looks comically big, but I don't care! Once I finish sewing it, because right now the hoops are just pinned to the vertical tapes, I'll take some pictures. I'll be able to use it for everything but my fancy dress, because the striped skirt silk would only just fit over it, as in only a couple inches extra, and I don't want it tight over the hoop.

I've also been doing a lot of beaded knitting and crochet lately. I joined a knit-along for a pence jug purse through the Living History Knits and Crochet Facebook group, and we're currently in week two of five. This is such a small project and it knits up quickly, leaving me feeling impatient for more directions! Of course if I were just doing this on my own with no timing, it would linger, I'm sure.

Untitled Untitled

Done!

Jul. 19th, 2017 09:14 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The beach pajamas are done! I even secured the threads on the ends of the darts. I should probably whip the seam allowances, but eh.

On to more little things! Except for wanting another spring corset (with different straps), everything now is small.

beige bodice

Jul. 19th, 2017 11:12 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I finished sewing the hooks and bars on this afternoon before work, but didn't quite have enough time to suit up and start fussing with fit, so indulged in flights of fancy re: my planned turn-of-the-century wardrobe. (My Voice of Fashion and Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques books arrived yesterday, so that helped with the distraction. The latter may be a bit beyond me, but I never mind having something to work up to, and at the very least the pattern shapes will be helpful!) I sincerely doubt I'll have time to throw a dinner dress into the mix, but it's very amusing to plan out!

Tonight I intend to get the buttons sewn on the beige bodice (yes, buttons over hooks...after testing out hooks and bars vs buttons for years, I've come to the conclusion that I generally prefer hooks to fasten tight-fitting victorian bodices! Much less annoying to do up! And then slap the buttons on top), which was delayed by my putting the buttons away while cleaning up a while back. Never put stuff away!

Also: spent money today I totally shouldn't have. But Dita von Teese added Philadelphia to her touring schedule this fall, and the pre-sale went up today...and I just couldn't not go! I'm much more of an enthusiast of Dita's style than necessarily burlesque in general (I think it's cool! but I wouldn't call myself an enthusiast), but I wouldn't turn down an opportunity to see Queen Dita! I texted a college friend who's also a fan..."can we turn this opportunity down??" "NO WE CANNOT!"...so I'll be going with her on September 15th. Woo!

(Well I think I need a new dress...!)

Turquoise Dress Preview

Jul. 19th, 2017 03:43 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca

I tried on the turquoise gala gown with everything (except jewelry) yesterday for the first time, and I am so in love with it. Like, I was so happy, I felt like I could cry. I'm pretty sure that's what brides feel like. And somehow, it fit even better than when I wore it in Port Townsend. So anyway, I marked where the hooks and eyes on the train waist needed to go, and how the sash needed to go together. I think I may need to pin the sash to my dress at the shoulder so that I don't adjust it all the time, but at least it looks right. And I took a couple of pictures, which was very difficult since I don't at all fit in the mirror. 

Once I took it off, I finished the waistband and the sash, which means all my CoCo sewing is done! That said, I also spent a little time last night figuring out what pattern I wanted to use (and what alterations I wanted to make to the pattern) for a new Belle-inspired dress made of Beauty and the Beast stained glass cotton to wear to Disney. So hopefully I will have time to throw that together. It should be relatively easy (famous last words). 

I also finished my handout for the class I'm teaching. I still have to cut out all the pieces I'm providing, and buy the supplies I need for the classes I'm taking, too, which will hopefully happen tomorrow.  

Blaaaa...

Jul. 18th, 2017 09:01 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I wasted the entire night trying to get the turban for the beaded dress to work. To make myself feel better (or something) I tried wrapping the shawl that I've used as a turban before and wrapped it cutely in about a minute. I think trying to to it in voile or voile and silk was the issue. Oh well.

So I decided to go turbanless (I don't want the faux sequined shawl for this) and actually tried to do my hair. I never practice hair. But I found out that my tiny curling iron will curl my hair from straight, which is good. I may or may not wrap the strip of fabric I hemmed for the bird dress around my head. We will see.

The plan had been to make the pants for the beach pajamas. And fix the straps. I moved them a tiny bit after checking them and didn't check them again. Never a good plan!

But it's earlyish. I still may do something...

slight change of tack

Jul. 18th, 2017 11:39 pm
mandie_rw: (sew all the things!)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
We might go to a Boer War event this weekend at a local-ish fort (if it's not 90F, which it probably will be), so I felt vaguely inspired today to start fixing my beige cotton print bodice instead of continuing on the dinner dress bodice mockup. It's not really wandering very far off, as I want it for Belvidere too...unless it's hot enough that I have to wear the Ugly Shirtwaist yet again.

I can't remember what details I posted about the bad fit of the beige print bodice so I'll recap - basically I used my pattern taken from a fabric mockup that had stretched a lot and I didn't realize (that's what I get for being lazy and not cutting it out on paper the first time I used it, for my first natural form dress a couple years ago!)...so I sewed it almost all together before realizing it totally didn't fit. Not like, oh, I'll just have to add an underlap and put the buttons all the way over, but the CF edges didn't even meet, and the armscye was pinchy at the front. Which I then tried to easy-fix by letting out a dart, fussing with the shoulder seams, and pretending it fit, and I got it pretty close to done before acknowledging that it'd be embarrassing to wear a bodice that fit like that. Which was where I left it the week before Belvidere last year! I knew I'd have to take a good bit of it apart, and Didn't Want To.

So, more recently, I took the step of undoing all the work I needed to, to start fixing the damn thing. Took the collar and sleeves off, unpicked the bottom facing, boning and the waist stay from the side seam and took said seam out. I pinned rough strips of fabric into the let-out seam and tried the thing on with a corset today to check and see if that side-seam-fix would be my best plan. Yup.

It's going to be a very stupidly-shaped piece of fabric once it's fitted, but it'll work. And less obvious than sticking something in CF, which was the only other option (best practice would have been to just recut the fronts, but I don't have enough fabric left for that!). I may have to piece in the front of the armscyes (as I'm a meticulous seam-trimmer, and had already notched/tacked down all the SA, of course) and put a wedge in the sleeve armpit since it was a smooth-fitting sleeve and the armscye might now be too big for it...but maybe not.

I put the second dart back in the fronts, and I'm in the process of sewing on 10,00 hooks & bars, since I think my best plan is to have the closure done before fine-tuning the weirdo side-wedges!

All this and I'm fairly sure it'll be too hot on Sunday to want to go to the fort anyway. But I want this bodice fixed up either way!

fabric-buying aw yiss

Jul. 18th, 2017 12:52 am
mandie_rw: (Default)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I meant to buy the light blue voile from FFC earlier to make the tea gown for Belvidere, as today was the last day of their free shipping coupon code, and I like to not pay shipping. Went on tonight and it was sold out, oops. Cue a mad scramble to find something else to make a wrapper out of - as usual, there was a certain amount you had to spend to get the free shipping, and I really wanted to get my Take Two of bathing costume flannel (the first one I bought is really too heavy...and also not terribly colorfast, apparently. I could have been practical and cheap and just bought the cotton twill that was on sale...but I really want to experience the flannel bathing suit in all its glory! I'm weird). This one promises it's lightweight. We shall see.

Anyway, said flannel did not get me up to the free shipping, so I really dug around through the lightweight cottons (nada) and the tropical-weight wools (aha!), and found something in the wools. Two somethings, actually. *shifty eyes* I found a blue and ivory stripe wool-poly blend that might work for the wrapper/tea gown - if it's too poly-ish when it gets here, back it will go, but currently I'm hopeful. I adore lightweight wools but why are 99% of the affordable ones black, navy, and grey?? So BORING! (Yes, I know, suits. People make other things besides suits from wool, come on!)
The other tropical weight wool I found and couldn't resist will be for my next early 1880s warm-weather dress. I have no plans to make it soon, but since natural form seems to be an established Thing for us now, I can tell I'm going to get tired of my one and only dress after I wear it at least twice more this year. Not to mention, it's all cotton, but it's a joann's printed broadcloth, so not particularly lightweight when you get all the linings and the overskirt and everything else on together. The cream/navy check I found is 100% wool so I'm fairly confident it'll be cooler than the cotton dress if it's really tropical weight like they promise!
Apparently I like blue today...hopefully I like blue still when I go to use all this fabric! The flannel is blue too... (And yes, this after complaining about the lack of color variety in wools...)

(I'm attempting pictures again. via Google, thanks to [personal profile] jenthompson 's help, but I'm too dumb to figure out how to make them smaller when using an embed code, so this will not be an ideal method when I have pics taken on a camera instead of pilfered from a fabric site, because then they will be GIANT EFFIN' PICTURES, so. Hmm.)

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toodling along

Jul. 17th, 2017 10:19 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
As mentioned, Saturday I cut out a new chemise to work on for sewing day yesterday, to have something easy to abandon if [livejournal.com profile] misspeachum wanted help with her sewing (first sewing day at Amanda's, where the teapot is never big enough, the volume of conversation is never appropriate, and the jokes are always filthy! I think she'll come back...). As it was, Tessa was perfectly competent without much input from the old people (us), so I got a good bit of it done yesterday despite continuous yakking, and finished it today. Well, finished sans silk ribbon I'm going to thread through the neckline lace, for decoration and for keeping the thing on. Had to order 2mm ribbon, as the lace is cheapo joann's-on-a-spool, with teensy holes that aren't really meant to have a ribbon threaded through. I will fight you, lace. You're getting ribboned!

(Technically I didn't really need another chemise as I could have worn the late-18thc-shift, which is good Wear With Everything underwear. But I'm not often in the mood to make chemises so I figured I'd take advantage while I was!)

And home again!

Jul. 17th, 2017 04:22 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The Jane Austen Festival was wonderful. As usual, no recap, but it was so nice to see so many people! And Game of Thrones! And amazing food (vegetarian bahn mi and won ton soup, a whole vegetarian Chinese restaurant, and Ethiopian in addition to very yummy hummus filled picnics)! And I finished the bodice for the beach pajamas! Also, I still have a Snorlax in the Locust Grove gym :)

The trip home continued my streak of good travel luck--not only was [personal profile] jennil at the airport (it was so nice to have more time to catch up! It's been so long!) my flight got in half an hour early!

I've even unpacked and fixed the handle on my suitcase--the screw in the handle came out. It was easy--unzip the lining, find the missing bolt, and screw it back in. I also tightened the other screws since they weren't sticking out of the backs of the bolts.

Anyway, I'm very much in the mood to sew, but I think I only have machine sewing. But I might make the beach pajamas belt by hand to avoid turning a tube. I hate turning tubes more than just about anything sewing wise...

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