totchipanda: (tarepanda swing)
All i need is sleeve fluffage :D its all hemmed and ready amd holy shit i cant believe i made this beautiful thing thats decorating Josephine.

Tomorrow I'll start on the accessories!
totchipanda: (Default)
My fingers are sore but SO WORTH IT

totchipanda: (Toothless: Baroo?)
I had to go back into my archive and tag some old posts* so I could find them when it inevitably takes me many many months or years to get back to a project. Now that I've decided to finish the stays before the dress, and I want the dress for summer, I'm eager to work on them. But of course it's been so long since I started that I couldn't quite remember what the heck was happening with them. I remembered that I wasn't happy with the fit, largely due to it being overall too large (I thought), but wasn't quite sure how to proceed. That was back in September.

So I started by googling other makes and seeing a lot of similarities to my pattern (drafted from a custom body block that I made with Stays & Corsets by Mandy Barrington). I borrowed the book from a friend and returned it at the end of last year, and I didn't think to document the patterning process (nor did I finish the hip portions of the block) so I'm trying to remember as best as I can.

Things I know I did:

- used a bit more than the book's recommended reduction of 2cm. 2cm is less than an inch, and even though I took a bit more off, they ended up fitting more like a fitted t-shirt than a support garment. Ideally I would like to take off something more like 10-14cm and redraft, but without the book it's not possible at this time.

- while I initially thought adding 1" of seam allowance was ridiculous, it's not especially bad for stays, BUT, only if they're drafted as a support garment in the first place. If I just use my drafted pattern as though it includes .5" seams, it might be OK.

- I thought I'd taken in my back pieces 2" to make the edges "meet" but it turns out it's more like 1.75". That measly .25" extra is not enough to make the stays fit comfortably.

- I think I need a bit more room in the bust? Without boning or proper lacing/sizing, and just pinning the mock-up closed (made from a somewhat thin but firm-handed poly/cotton), I get muffin-top boobs. Not especially attractive, or comfortable. I think that would work, but again, once I get the sizing right.

- I think my front might not be long enough. It comes down right about to the point of where my belly sticks out the farthest, which is probably not terrible all things considered (looking at you, Victorian corsets with your sticky-outtie busks). I suspect I will have to make a boned sample to make a final decision.

- Looking into maybe a closed back with no lacing. I found a couple examples and while it's certainly not the norm, it would make my life a lot easier. If I go that route, I will probably do tape straps.

- What do I make them out of?? I have some mid-weight linen I could use, or some IKEA fabric that I bought for a dress but it's much too heavy for clothing, but not so heavy that it would be unsuitable for stays. (Hat-tip to Asa for that tidbit, as she used IKEA fabric for a corset mock-up). I would probably want to cover it though, and that would also mean lining it.

In conclusion... I think I'm over-thinking this way too much. Tonight was the only night this week I had to work on stuff and instead I read 3 weeks of blog posts I missed during the transition period last month. Ah well. It's done now.

*I tagged them on DW but I don't believe it carried over to LJ.
totchipanda: (Default)
I made my pattern, cut and sewed a mock-up, then had to re-make the fronts and try again. I think the back looks great!

 photo 20170422_175004_zpstpaz4zqb.jpg

But the front (version 2) needs a little work...

 photo 20170422_175018_zpsyqwwmftr.jpg

I left the gray cover up to show where my stays show, the horizontal pin towards the bottom is where my stays end, and the horizontal pin up near the waist is where I think the curve should be, this one is just too wide and shallow. Josephine isn't the same size or shape as me, of course, and her waist is smaller than mine, though she is close. I find only a half inch or so off the bottom ought to be sufficient.

I'm also wondering if I should really spend some time on a different set of stays. The ones I have are an earlier style with a removable stomacher that frankly hurt my boobs today (maybe because I am wearing a sundress with a somewhat compressed bustline), and also a later style may change the shape of my torso that I want to account for.

I'm off to the sportsball game, will return to sewing tomorrow. Thoughts and opinions welcome!

(I so need to rehem that petticoat. It puddles on the floor. I need shoes but not that tall of ones!)

Petticoats

Apr. 22nd, 2017 10:47 am
totchipanda: (Default)
Dreary day, but it's been productive. I finally found my oil change coupon, so I booked that last night, and he could fit me in today but I had to take my car there and leave it for the day. Luckily it's just down the street from me, I didn't hurry home and it took me 25 minutes to walk, which included pokemon-walking, -catching, -hatching, and two brief detours (of half a block each) to hit pokestops. I'm just slightly over the mileage (couple hundred kilometers), but it was last done in September, and I'm headed on a road trip next week, so I really wanted it done! I wish I'd put more effort into it a couple weeks ago, but I can't be too hard on myself for that. Would have been nice, but the beginning of April was hella stressful. So.

Finished the taffeta petticoat I started on Monday when I got back, and then took some pictures and nanced about in it and the cotton one for a few mins. I don't have a mirror anymore to check the length, but I think I need to shorten the cotton one. Right now it just brushes the top of my feet without shoes and I think I want it more ankle-baring length. I spent some time last night looking for inspiration pieces, and it seems that a lot of cotton dresses were just plain, simple ones without a lot of fluff. I'm not sure how I feel about that, but it does make my plan a lot easier, since I don't really have one as yet lol. I suppose I can always start plain and add/decorate as I need/want to.

Feeling a little rough today, new office shares air with approx 10x more people than before, so whatever bug is going around decided to set up camp in my throat on Thursday, and screaming my head off at the game on Thursday night did not help. But I think I will start patterning the gown today.
totchipanda: (Default)
I finished adding seam allowances to the pattern and traced off a new copy, cut it out and made a mock-up. I need to read the book again, because I don't know that I should have added seam allowances O_O The measurements I used were a bit smaller than the ones I should have (I was in between sizes, and since the reduction was only 2-5cm, I went down to next-smallest size) but otherwise followed the directions faithfully. I left a 2" gap at the back (left closed with the fold of the fabric, so I could try it on with a separating zipper) and stitched it up, and it closed around my body easily, with not even a hint of compression. I calculated up my seams (3", not including the gap) and was able to pinch the fabric at least that much. So I stitched the back up 2" and folded in my front 1". It's got a good amount of compression now, not too much, and the waist hits me right on my waist. Aside from being too large, it seems really good! Back to reading the book :)

Edit: read the book, and seam allowances were NOT included*. So my first mock-up ended up with backs "touching", and only half an inch of reduction, which just felt like... wearing a snug t-shirt. My brain isn't really firing on all synapses right now, so I will ponder this conundrum and decide what to do tomorrow.

*The "usual" allowances were given as 5cm (2") on CF and CB, and 2.5cm (1") on other seams. That is a RIDICULOUS amount of allowance.

Pattern!

Sep. 16th, 2016 10:37 pm
totchipanda: (Default)
I finished drafting my stays pattern! Now I'm having the "should I cut this apart or retrace it?" moment. I don't know if any changes I need to make will require redrafting it or what D:



Also haven't decided how I want to construct it. I don't think I have the patience to do boning channels by hand, but how modernly do I feel like constructing it? Hard questions for a Friday night >.>
totchipanda: (Default)
I sort-of have a plan for this month's HSM challenge, Historicism. I want to make a Victorian NF dress with Watteau pleats. The issues are:

Fabric choices
Tea gown vs 3-pc outfit

If I do a tea gown, I have a fabric reminiscent of the Waverly curtains, and someone at CoCo a few years ago did a watteau-backed tea gown that was fabulous! I have the TV pattern.

If I do the outfit, I want to use the diagrams in Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol 1. I'm just having a hard time envisioning what the fabric will be. The diagrams used bordered fabric, of which the only one I have is white with a large border. Maybe I have one that will work? I don't know if I have enough of it. I would need a minimum of hmm let's see... Evangeline was 4m with no overskirt or decorations of any kind. I would like to have double that. Eek D:

I am learning what the term "dress-length" means haha.

ETA: My three options are 7m, 11m, and 8m :O This might be doable after all! I think they are all at least blends, however, and more likely poly :(

ETA2: Pictures of said fabric! Top to bottom: 7m, 8m and 11m.
Probably huge picture )

============

Today I went to see a couple movies with my brother. Labyrinth was playing as part of a family-favourites series, so for $3 it was well worth our time and effort. Then we stayed for a showing of Kubo and the Two Strings. When I got home I took a two-hour nap, because I'd gone to bed around 2am and got up at 7:30. Now I'm feeling a little out of sorts still, though I've been awake for over an hour now.

Tomorrow is some gardening (as long as the weather cooperates? Not sure.) and sewing with the Regency ladies. I think I'd also like to get the open robe started, the fabric has been earmarked for that since I got it in spring 2014! Or perhaps I will take my swallowtail jacket. It's been procrastinated long enough, so I started working on the eyelets last night. I need a better awl, mine is so tiny. I have to use 3 different knitting needles to get the hole wide enough after.

Next week is my dance performances, so I also need to be practicing!

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