But the front (version 2) needs a little work...
I left the gray cover up to show where my stays show, the horizontal pin towards the bottom is where my stays end, and the horizontal pin up near the waist is where I think the curve should be, this one is just too wide and shallow. Josephine isn't the same size or shape as me, of course, and her waist is smaller than mine, though she is close. I find only a half inch or so off the bottom ought to be sufficient.
I'm also wondering if I should really spend some time on a different set of stays. The ones I have are an earlier style with a removable stomacher that frankly hurt my boobs today (maybe because I am wearing a sundress with a somewhat compressed bustline), and also a later style may change the shape of my torso that I want to account for.
I'm off to the sportsball game, will return to sewing tomorrow. Thoughts and opinions welcome!
(I so need to rehem that petticoat. It puddles on the floor. I need shoes but not that tall of ones!)
It's not boned, and currently made of a heavy twill. The front is cut from a corset I abandoned many years ago (and thank goodness, it was made very poorly, and much too small, for where I am now!). The back is rescued from an Elizabethan bodies that I also abandoned but decided it would make for great lacing strips. Shown over a Regency shift.
Other thoughts: I moved the compression point from the top of the hip gussets to just underneath (the top grommet is level with the top of the gussets). I think it could stand to be longer-waisted somehow? The compression happens across the top of my tummy, nearly at my ribs, and my tummy of course pushes the bottom of the corset forward. I still need to take in the top a smidge, I definitely don't need to expand the hips, but how to fix the waist without losing the look, cuz it's a great look/shape! Maybe it's just the back and side-hip gusset I need to lengthen? The back definitely needs to be widened, the finished edge of the lacing strips are flush with the unfinished back edges and I already have a large lacing gap. I need to account for the boning as well.
I had made it out of what I thought was a nice linen/cotton blend, from TV 170 View 2 (I think! My pattern is at Nicole's, I believe, and like I mentioned, it was at least 4 years ago!), but I didn't realize until now that it has some width-wise stretch to it :/ That made some of the sewing tricksy where the fabric wanted to stretch out, especially when I ruffled the top edge with the ruffler foot. I had some tensioning issues with my serger too, so there's a few puckers along the hem as well. Oh well. It's an under piece. I've been trying to use up old thread bobbins, so I used dark grey in 2 places, the light pink, and then finally wound a new bobbin with my top-stitching thread (a purple on the periwinkle end of the spectrum), which then ran out in the middle of topstitching. By then it was 10pm, so I gave it up. Someday I will have a sewing room that does not share walls with neighbours and I can sew until midnight or later if I want to :)
Then of course I had to pin its unfinishedness to Josephine and try it out under the skirts I made in May, just for funsies. It's too long for those skirts, which were made to be walking-length, and this petticoat is going to end up being closer to gown-length, I think, though I could fudge it still since it's not on a waistband yet. Or add a couple more tucks to the upper part of the skirt. The fabric is really too heavy to be an appropriate petticoat, but I'm still pretty excited to have it done so I can try it out! If nothing else, I can make that fancy NF "hoop" petticoat in Fashions of the Gilded Age (the same one that jenthompson made) to help hold it out. And poor Josephine fell over the other day, so now her hips are all out of whack. I'll have to undress her to reset them.
Eta: pictures are of the fronts and backs, corded and ready to go lol. Boobs were too scandalous to photograph!
( Pictures! )
( le pictures! )
Not shown, the massive (?) amount of blood my finger left all over the inside of the bodice and front of the skirt after I stabbed pins into it trying to pin the dress closed... (I started the dress about a year ago, used a bodice pattern that fit then, but it's been a year and also late at night...)
Ladies wot do 18th century... how do you keep your shift sleeves from bunching up into your armpits? I could NOT get them down, very uncomfortable. (Also reminded myself why you do socks and shoes BEFORE corset/stays. Eesh, self, really?)
Still need to rehem the petticoat, and hem the gown, (and clean up the blood) but then it is DONE.
I was also productive today! I took down my Christmas tree, vacuumed, and took all my recyclables out, had a shower, and then my life-partner (and her roomie) and I went and picked up fabric for our Victorian Hogwarts uniforms. I am THRILLED that we were able to pick it up on a sale. I was itching (literally?) to have wool for it, and we got it for around $7.33/metre. Now to finish designing the outfits :D
I found some of my thoughts from the other day. I feel like I do "too much", and when I look at my boxes and my plans and think about where/when I can wear this lovely things I make, I think what I really feel like I do "too much" with is that I sew many, many, many time periods and styles, and some of them, I have no opportunities to wear them.
I've had an Elizabethan outfit on hold for the last 7 years (ACK it feels more recent than that) and while I really want to finish it, I have no where to wear it. I haven't been to an SCA event in 4 years, which would be the number one place to take it. But then, if I decide not to finish it, do I sell the unfinished layers and extra fabric for someone else to finish? What do I do with the patterns I bought over the years, if I have no desire to pursue it any longer? Same goes for gothic lolita stuff: what do I do with outfits and dresses I spent a lot of time working on, books I purchased? Both of them are looks I still love but is it worth the space they hold if all they do is sit in boxes and no one admires them, not even me?
I have decided! The petticoat gets a waistband tomorrow, and then I shall attempt to starch it. I have no idea how well a possibly poly-cotton broadcloth and acrylic yarn will take starch, but it will be fun to find out! :D
(Also am not going to fuss with a silly spray bottle of starch solution. That would take way too long. Good thing I know where my mopping bucket is, that hasn't had a mop in it in about 6 years)
In some order of importance:
Dad's frock coat
Joe's lolita outfit
Finish Ashura (Tsubasa - Sakuracon)
Maylene (Black Butler/Kuroshitsuji - Sakuracon/Otafest)
Blue Cleric (Dokapon Kingdom - Sakuracon/Otafest)
Euphemia (Code Geass - Animethon?)
Green taffeta outfit (Victorian/Regency)
Elizabethan minor noble gown
Victorian natural form
ETA: I should make a list of all the sizeable pieces of fabric I have and what I may intend to use them for. Off the top of my head:
10m blue wool blend (possibly an off-dye for the military) - Elizabethan gown; Riding coat
6m blue/white polyester plaid (I tried to iron it once on cotton and it melted onto my iron, a stain which is still there) - Lolita skirt and jacket and tie, kind of like a travelling outfit.
?m dark grey and brown plaid - Lolita?
6m? light brown and red plaid - lolita? Lining for red wool cape.
4m purple floral - lolita or Regency
3m ivory floral - lolita
7m bronze silk-look polyester - Victorian or Regency
4m? pale green diamond-pattern poly - finish Elizabethan gown, then?
4m blue cotton - lolita
4m brown - Jedi or lolita
2m cream wool-look poly - no idea.
8m green almost-twill - Elizabethan
5m cotton/linen blend - Victorian natural form petticoat
12m green/yellow two-tone taffeta - Victorian/Regency
11m tangerine printed taffeta - Victorian polonaise, then?
Anyway, first on my plate will be a new corset for myself. I want to try making my own again, at least a mock-up, and see if the overall length and shape might not be better for me than the one I purchased last year. It's a beautiful corset and certainly fulfills my needs, but I find it a little long, especially in the front. I read somewhere that a habit Elizabethan women had while corseted was sitting with one's legs spread, which is very unnatural to our modern habits. Certainly is to me! I did attempt to employ it at the con when circumstances allowed, namely while attempting to sit up straight in chairs in crowded panel rooms. Also on the train trip, I managed to bend one of the bones into an L-shape at the very bottom, from sitting too long, I guess. Maybe a corset that's an inch or two shorter will be that much shorter in the hip and not dig in. We shall see.
I will have to wash my skirt as it collected a lot of dust and hair from the convention center, and then I'll have to get dolled up at least that far with my new boots on to see if I need to alter the hem. It would mean having to remove the pleats, re-hem the skirt, and then reattach the pleats (cry!) but then I could also fix the pleats in place with a row of stitching down the back of each one. And then attempt to figure out some trim, as I still find it a little plain.
I want to get some more Victorian patterns, mostly ones that don't require the massive bustle (even though the bustle is my favourite part). I don't see why I couldn't, on the days I have off and am going somewhere, dress in Victorian. A bustle-less dress would draw slightly less attention. Don't get me wrong, I love getting compliments on my dresses, but going to a mall instead of a convention is a vast difference. Weather will play a factor, as well.
Top of my non-personal lists is Dad's frock coat, and Joe's lolita outfit. After that, I may consider taking commissions, or making ready-to-sell items for some extra income during slow seasons at work.
But I did find some navy lightweight linen on sale for $4/m in the bargain section, and I didn't even know the bargain stuff was an extra 50% off :D I really wanted to make a high-necked smock out of it, but an hour of internetting convinced me that this Simply Was Not Done (tm) and I don't want to look silly with a navy smock... So hellooooo kirtle! Woo! It's in the wash right now, I can't wait to get started :D
Fluffy Doom Skirt needs some buttons and the ribbons tied into bows, and it is FINALLY done.
So, I started working on stuff.
( Historical )
( Lolita )
( Cosplay )