totchipanda: (Toothless: Baroo?)
I had to go back into my archive and tag some old posts* so I could find them when it inevitably takes me many many months or years to get back to a project. Now that I've decided to finish the stays before the dress, and I want the dress for summer, I'm eager to work on them. But of course it's been so long since I started that I couldn't quite remember what the heck was happening with them. I remembered that I wasn't happy with the fit, largely due to it being overall too large (I thought), but wasn't quite sure how to proceed. That was back in September.

So I started by googling other makes and seeing a lot of similarities to my pattern (drafted from a custom body block that I made with Stays & Corsets by Mandy Barrington). I borrowed the book from a friend and returned it at the end of last year, and I didn't think to document the patterning process (nor did I finish the hip portions of the block) so I'm trying to remember as best as I can.

Things I know I did:

- used a bit more than the book's recommended reduction of 2cm. 2cm is less than an inch, and even though I took a bit more off, they ended up fitting more like a fitted t-shirt than a support garment. Ideally I would like to take off something more like 10-14cm and redraft, but without the book it's not possible at this time.

- while I initially thought adding 1" of seam allowance was ridiculous, it's not especially bad for stays, BUT, only if they're drafted as a support garment in the first place. If I just use my drafted pattern as though it includes .5" seams, it might be OK.

- I thought I'd taken in my back pieces 2" to make the edges "meet" but it turns out it's more like 1.75". That measly .25" extra is not enough to make the stays fit comfortably.

- I think I need a bit more room in the bust? Without boning or proper lacing/sizing, and just pinning the mock-up closed (made from a somewhat thin but firm-handed poly/cotton), I get muffin-top boobs. Not especially attractive, or comfortable. I think that would work, but again, once I get the sizing right.

- I think my front might not be long enough. It comes down right about to the point of where my belly sticks out the farthest, which is probably not terrible all things considered (looking at you, Victorian corsets with your sticky-outtie busks). I suspect I will have to make a boned sample to make a final decision.

- Looking into maybe a closed back with no lacing. I found a couple examples and while it's certainly not the norm, it would make my life a lot easier. If I go that route, I will probably do tape straps.

- What do I make them out of?? I have some mid-weight linen I could use, or some IKEA fabric that I bought for a dress but it's much too heavy for clothing, but not so heavy that it would be unsuitable for stays. (Hat-tip to Asa for that tidbit, as she used IKEA fabric for a corset mock-up). I would probably want to cover it though, and that would also mean lining it.

In conclusion... I think I'm over-thinking this way too much. Tonight was the only night this week I had to work on stuff and instead I read 3 weeks of blog posts I missed during the transition period last month. Ah well. It's done now.

*I tagged them on DW but I don't believe it carried over to LJ.
totchipanda: (Default)
I finished adding seam allowances to the pattern and traced off a new copy, cut it out and made a mock-up. I need to read the book again, because I don't know that I should have added seam allowances O_O The measurements I used were a bit smaller than the ones I should have (I was in between sizes, and since the reduction was only 2-5cm, I went down to next-smallest size) but otherwise followed the directions faithfully. I left a 2" gap at the back (left closed with the fold of the fabric, so I could try it on with a separating zipper) and stitched it up, and it closed around my body easily, with not even a hint of compression. I calculated up my seams (3", not including the gap) and was able to pinch the fabric at least that much. So I stitched the back up 2" and folded in my front 1". It's got a good amount of compression now, not too much, and the waist hits me right on my waist. Aside from being too large, it seems really good! Back to reading the book :)

Edit: read the book, and seam allowances were NOT included*. So my first mock-up ended up with backs "touching", and only half an inch of reduction, which just felt like... wearing a snug t-shirt. My brain isn't really firing on all synapses right now, so I will ponder this conundrum and decide what to do tomorrow.

*The "usual" allowances were given as 5cm (2") on CF and CB, and 2.5cm (1") on other seams. That is a RIDICULOUS amount of allowance.


Sep. 16th, 2016 10:37 pm
totchipanda: (Default)
I finished drafting my stays pattern! Now I'm having the "should I cut this apart or retrace it?" moment. I don't know if any changes I need to make will require redrafting it or what D:

Also haven't decided how I want to construct it. I don't think I have the patience to do boning channels by hand, but how modernly do I feel like constructing it? Hard questions for a Friday night >.>
totchipanda: (Yay! (Al))
I am so close! I finished the eyelets the other day and the cording last night, so today I could trim all the cord ends and stitch the last seams, and the (drum roll) try it on (so I could mark the straps. In retrospect I should have included them in the mock-up). And damn y'all, my Regency boobs look amazing, if completely scandalous without the chemise on too. Mwahahah!

Eta: pictures are of the fronts and backs, corded and ready to go lol. Boobs were too scandalous to photograph!

Pictures! )


totchipanda: (Default)

September 2017

3 456789


RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated Sep. 25th, 2017 08:29 pm
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios