totchipanda (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
totchipanda) wrote2022-08-29 08:04 am
totchipanda) wrote2022-08-29 08:04 am
Entry tags:
my digits!
Spent the weekend stitching on the Angelica bodice.
Well, first I went grocery shopping, getting home just as it started to rain (omg we so needed it, both the water and the break in the 80+ F heat), and then after it stopped raining I went to the library to pick up my books. I got Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore (of Cashmerette Patterns), who focuses on larger sizes and curvier bodies. Y'all, this book is worth it for the fitting advice alone. The patterns are only the last 25% or so, the rest is all fit fit fit, with items shown on larger bodies. She talks about the difference in sewing cup sizes (different from bra sizes) and where to find certain landmarks on your body (i only disagree with the hip placement, because I've only found one reference to using physiology that works for me. Nearly everyone says "widest part" but they assume that includes your ass -- my widest part is lower than my hipbones, encompassing those large knobbys on the top of the femur), and also to take sitting measurements. She talks about how much ease to look for when you are making something with woven fabric vs knit, and how to use finished garment measurements vs patterned measurements in conjunction with fabric types. And the fitting section! I need ALL the adjustments for pants - low, full booty, full thighs, full calves, full belly - and she had the most comprehensive diagrams for that. Also different belly shapes -- hallelujah! See if your local library has it if you want to give it a look. It's an expensive book but hollleeeeeee the fitting section. My library also had the patterns included, so while I have bought one of her patterns, now I can add to my collection before I decide to buy anymore!
I also picked up a book on "the modern gentleman's vintage wardrobe" which is pretty meh as far as menswear is concerned. I took it out mostly because I wanted to get a feel for a masculine wardrobe, and because the author included some neckwear.
OK back to sewing. I tried on the bodice again, putting on ALL of the layers, and I made a couple changes. Pinned in the waist 1/2" total on one side, and let out the side front seam on the other. Ended up doing BOTH of those changes. Also marked the spot for a waist tie (which I will still pin in place before finalizing). Then I put on The Sandman again and stitched away. (Skipped episode 5 though, it's very heavy)
I left off Saturday with needing to try it on AGAIN to assess fit now that the front was in place, but I did that Sunday afternoon (after a bout with insomnia and also spending like 2 hours winding yarn). I left off the petticoat layers and I didn't lace the bodice on very well (my basting stitches ran through the eyelets), but I might need to adjust those back seams again. And I've already stitched everything down... I have now folded up the back hems too, so we shall see how that works out. If it's good (or even if it's not TBH), it's on to skirt city.
Well, first I went grocery shopping, getting home just as it started to rain (omg we so needed it, both the water and the break in the 80+ F heat), and then after it stopped raining I went to the library to pick up my books. I got Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore (of Cashmerette Patterns), who focuses on larger sizes and curvier bodies. Y'all, this book is worth it for the fitting advice alone. The patterns are only the last 25% or so, the rest is all fit fit fit, with items shown on larger bodies. She talks about the difference in sewing cup sizes (different from bra sizes) and where to find certain landmarks on your body (i only disagree with the hip placement, because I've only found one reference to using physiology that works for me. Nearly everyone says "widest part" but they assume that includes your ass -- my widest part is lower than my hipbones, encompassing those large knobbys on the top of the femur), and also to take sitting measurements. She talks about how much ease to look for when you are making something with woven fabric vs knit, and how to use finished garment measurements vs patterned measurements in conjunction with fabric types. And the fitting section! I need ALL the adjustments for pants - low, full booty, full thighs, full calves, full belly - and she had the most comprehensive diagrams for that. Also different belly shapes -- hallelujah! See if your local library has it if you want to give it a look. It's an expensive book but hollleeeeeee the fitting section. My library also had the patterns included, so while I have bought one of her patterns, now I can add to my collection before I decide to buy anymore!
I also picked up a book on "the modern gentleman's vintage wardrobe" which is pretty meh as far as menswear is concerned. I took it out mostly because I wanted to get a feel for a masculine wardrobe, and because the author included some neckwear.
OK back to sewing. I tried on the bodice again, putting on ALL of the layers, and I made a couple changes. Pinned in the waist 1/2" total on one side, and let out the side front seam on the other. Ended up doing BOTH of those changes. Also marked the spot for a waist tie (which I will still pin in place before finalizing). Then I put on The Sandman again and stitched away. (Skipped episode 5 though, it's very heavy)
I left off Saturday with needing to try it on AGAIN to assess fit now that the front was in place, but I did that Sunday afternoon (after a bout with insomnia and also spending like 2 hours winding yarn). I left off the petticoat layers and I didn't lace the bodice on very well (my basting stitches ran through the eyelets), but I might need to adjust those back seams again. And I've already stitched everything down... I have now folded up the back hems too, so we shall see how that works out. If it's good (or even if it's not TBH), it's on to skirt city.
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Also, glad to hear you got some rain. It's so nice how it cools things down. I was interested to notice how rain did not seem to have a similar cooling effect when I was in the UK.
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As for good books on sewing for men, it's one of the things that are sorely lacking today.
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You are so right that there's a dearth of sewing books for men. In that respect it is a good book, containing everything one would need for a basic wardrobe (except an undershirt) - two shirts, waistcoat, trousers, jacket, neckwear, hat, bag, wallet, boxers, pajamas and a robe. Basic sizes (lettered only, not numbered) but definitely good for beginners with lots of drawings, and the patterns are also included.
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