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totchipanda) wrote2024-01-10 04:12 pm
totchipanda) wrote2024-01-10 04:12 pm
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1916 Petticoat instructions
I plan to put this in a proper blog eventually, and perhaps even record some videos, but for now, just in case anyone else is interested:
Clothing for Women (1916)
9. Dust Ruffles. — (a) Join the strips for the dust ruffle, over-handing selvedges, or fell, on cut edges. Baste a hem three-eighth inch deep or, if preferred, use machine attachments. Gather this ruffle on the machine, first marking it off into quarters, and the skirt also, beginning at the center front, using colored thread with running stitches (Fig. 133).
(b) Receiving Tuck: This is one of the most satisfactory finishes for ruffles and flounces, making them seem to be a part of the material itself. Cut the petticoat off on the line which was turned and approved. Measure up from this edge twice the depth of the tuck, plus one-quarter-inch seam (one inch) and crease firmly, and baste (using card gauge for measuring). Then measure from the fold the depth of the tuck, set gauge on machine and stitch three-eighth-inch tuck. Remove bastings, fold tuck into place, crease flat; trace along lower edge of tuck to mark line to which gathers of dust ruffles are to be placed. Pin ruffle to petticoat, wrong sides together, keeping gathers on traced line, the divisions of the ruffle meeting the divisions of the skirt; avoid a seam of the ruffle in the center front. Baste ruffle to place; stitch; remove bastings. Lay edge of tuck down to gathers, baste to place and stitch (Fig. 133).
I had already cut the fabric for the Ettie petticoat, which has the dust ruffle laid on top of the skirt . The top edge is turned in and gathered like that to get a clean top edge (the ruffle is laid on top and finished with a lace insert). I laid the dust ruffle on as directed, but then brought the skirt down over it as a tuck. I don't have a single tucking attachment for the machines that I have so if I'm reading that section right, I would just make a 3/8" tuck normally and then sort of offset the seam of the dust ruffle and petticoat edges so that it would have a double-stitched hem. I did not sew the tuck first, so it'll just be a bound edge, basically. (And it does look really pretty!)
The pattern has lace inserts in the ruffle, but one of the notes on petticoats in this book is self-trimming, particularly flounces and bands. I am considering some bias or straight strips of the fabric and using that as the ruffle seam cover, and possibly in place of the lace inserts. I am also considering replacing the lace with small tucks. It's already cut so I am limited to the height of the panels, but I think it could work since by tucking the dust ruffle, I've lost an inch or so of length. And I'm not as tall as the pattern is drafted for -- I put it on just to see how it looked and I think its a good length for me.
Clothing for Women (1916)
9. Dust Ruffles. — (a) Join the strips for the dust ruffle, over-handing selvedges, or fell, on cut edges. Baste a hem three-eighth inch deep or, if preferred, use machine attachments. Gather this ruffle on the machine, first marking it off into quarters, and the skirt also, beginning at the center front, using colored thread with running stitches (Fig. 133).
(b) Receiving Tuck: This is one of the most satisfactory finishes for ruffles and flounces, making them seem to be a part of the material itself. Cut the petticoat off on the line which was turned and approved. Measure up from this edge twice the depth of the tuck, plus one-quarter-inch seam (one inch) and crease firmly, and baste (using card gauge for measuring). Then measure from the fold the depth of the tuck, set gauge on machine and stitch three-eighth-inch tuck. Remove bastings, fold tuck into place, crease flat; trace along lower edge of tuck to mark line to which gathers of dust ruffles are to be placed. Pin ruffle to petticoat, wrong sides together, keeping gathers on traced line, the divisions of the ruffle meeting the divisions of the skirt; avoid a seam of the ruffle in the center front. Baste ruffle to place; stitch; remove bastings. Lay edge of tuck down to gathers, baste to place and stitch (Fig. 133).
I had already cut the fabric for the Ettie petticoat, which has the dust ruffle laid on top of the skirt . The top edge is turned in and gathered like that to get a clean top edge (the ruffle is laid on top and finished with a lace insert). I laid the dust ruffle on as directed, but then brought the skirt down over it as a tuck. I don't have a single tucking attachment for the machines that I have so if I'm reading that section right, I would just make a 3/8" tuck normally and then sort of offset the seam of the dust ruffle and petticoat edges so that it would have a double-stitched hem. I did not sew the tuck first, so it'll just be a bound edge, basically. (And it does look really pretty!)
The pattern has lace inserts in the ruffle, but one of the notes on petticoats in this book is self-trimming, particularly flounces and bands. I am considering some bias or straight strips of the fabric and using that as the ruffle seam cover, and possibly in place of the lace inserts. I am also considering replacing the lace with small tucks. It's already cut so I am limited to the height of the panels, but I think it could work since by tucking the dust ruffle, I've lost an inch or so of length. And I'm not as tall as the pattern is drafted for -- I put it on just to see how it looked and I think its a good length for me.
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