I had to go back into my archive and tag some old posts* so I could find them when it inevitably takes me many many months or years to get back to a project. Now that I've decided to finish the stays before the dress, and I want the dress for summer, I'm eager to work on them. But of course it's been so long since I started that I couldn't quite remember what the heck was happening with them. I remembered that I wasn't happy with the fit, largely due to it being overall too large (I thought), but wasn't quite sure how to proceed. That was back in September.
So I started by googling other makes and seeing a lot of similarities to my pattern (drafted from a custom body block that I made with
Stays & Corsets by Mandy Barrington). I borrowed the book from a friend and returned it at the end of last year, and I didn't think to document the patterning process (nor did I finish the hip portions of the block) so I'm trying to remember as best as I can.
Things I know I did:
- used a bit more than the book's recommended reduction of 2cm. 2cm is less than an inch, and even though I took a bit more off, they ended up fitting more like a fitted t-shirt than a support garment. Ideally I would like to take off something more like 10-14cm and redraft, but without the book it's not possible at this time.
- while I initially thought adding 1" of seam allowance was ridiculous, it's not especially bad for stays, BUT, only if they're drafted as a support garment in the first place. If I just use my drafted pattern as though it includes .5" seams, it might be OK.
- I thought I'd taken in my back pieces 2" to make the edges "meet" but it turns out it's more like 1.75". That measly .25" extra is not enough to make the stays fit comfortably.
- I think I need a bit more room in the bust? Without boning or proper lacing/sizing, and just pinning the mock-up closed (made from a somewhat thin but firm-handed poly/cotton), I get muffin-top boobs. Not especially attractive, or comfortable. I think that would work, but again, once I get the sizing right.
- I think my front might not be long enough. It comes down right about to the point of where my belly sticks out the farthest, which is probably not terrible all things considered (looking at you, Victorian corsets with your sticky-outtie busks). I suspect I will have to make a boned sample to make a final decision.
- Looking into maybe a closed back with no lacing. I found a couple examples and while it's certainly not the norm, it would make my life a lot easier. If I go that route, I will probably do tape straps.
- What do I make them out of?? I have some mid-weight linen I could use, or some IKEA fabric that I bought for a dress but it's much too heavy for clothing, but not so heavy that it would be unsuitable for stays. (Hat-tip to Asa for that tidbit, as she used IKEA fabric for a
corset mock-up). I would probably want to cover it though, and that would also mean lining it.
In conclusion... I think I'm over-thinking this way too much. Tonight was the only night this week I had to work on stuff and instead I read 3 weeks of blog posts I missed during the transition period last month. Ah well. It's done now.
*I tagged them on DW but I don't believe it carried over to LJ.
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