totchipanda: (Default)
They crushed the last two games to make it to the final round of games. I don't know who the eastern team is or might be if the series isn't done yet, but playoff fever is high! I haven't watched any game except the one I've been to, mostly because of not having cable and refusing to sign up for a sports channel. Maybe one of the free(ish) ones will have the games.

Friday evening I spent LITERALLY four hours doing laundry. Started with my clothing, and then when no one else appeared to do theirs, I ran two loads of sheets and blankets too. Granted most of that time was waiting, but especially with needing to physically leave my building to go take care of it, it always feels like I don't have time to do anything else but wait. It's silly, I know, welcome to ADHD brain. I can sometimes overcome it when it's at least an hour, but 30-45 minutes is hard to convince myself that YES I have time, no really! So I put the table up on the risers (it's so tall now!) and did some sweeping and cooking and dishes.

Saturday I lumped onto the couch and decided that THIS WAS THE DAY that I was going to finally finish the embroidered mitts. Partner in Crime N has three (!) 10-needle embroidery machines and last year she got some pocket and mitt designs from Art Embroidery Designs (on Etsy) and happily stitched out a bunch. It was around this time of year when she handed me 2 sets and said "have at 'er". I used Burnley & Trowbridge's mitt pattern and had cut one out to test the fit before committing, because she did the embroidery on the cross grain which meant the mitts would not be on the bias. I did cut the thumb pieces on the bias, and basted it all together. I did not read the instructions and was WAY overthinking it, so I couldn't understand why the thumb piece was so much bigger than the hole it went in and why is it not working! Then I was moving and the project got packed away.

NO MORE! It was happening. And it did happen. It took most of Saturday to get one mitt basted and the other one cut out and it's thumb stitched on. Finally DID read the directions and wow the thumb construction makes sense when you put it like that. I was going to cut the linings on the bias, and then decided that because the mitt was on a straight grain, a bias lining wasn't going to benefit it much.

Sunday was lining day (with help from the kittens), and at the end of it I have a pair of mitts! They are too long (lol) and I dislike the way the grainlines make the fabric crumple around my wrist, but there isn't much I can do about it. The stitch-out has a section that I still need to decide what to do with, where there would be a gap and I would stitch it closed with a decorative stitch like the ones in Costume Close-up. I have another pair of embroidered panels and I'm excited to work on them!

I thought I would get started on lining the new stays, but then it felt like "wasting" the little bit of linen I have left, so I've put that aside for now. It doesn't desperately need one, they will not be worn enough anytime soon to worry about it.
totchipanda: (Default)
The stays are DONE!! OMG it seemed like it would take so very very long (and let's be real, it did!) I spent Friday night putting down the top binding for a short time until J messaged asking if we wanted to get cookies (Yes, yes we did), finishing it Saturday morning. It was super smoky on Saturday so I closed all my windows (need to get a fan) and did as little as possible to avoid feeling too stuffy. That was perfect for a day of Forensic Files and bottom tabs, which took roughly 8 hours of relaxed sewing.

Sunday was spent felling, which was both less time and the same amount of time because it was broken up by a lot of other things. I went to pick up the items I won on a charity auction, I did some dishes and cooking, I had to wait a lot while Calcifer napped on top of them. But then all of a sudden they were done! I used some off-cuts from one of the bags I made recently as the holders for the bust rail, which seemed to be at the right curve for the stays so I didn't soak it or anything. It was late enough when I finished it that I didn't want to get into the shift and lace it up, so that will be tonight (maybe) to test the fit. I still have time to put on a belly piece and I am going to line it, but as it is right now, I could absolutely wear it and call it a day.

The last thing I want to put in is an eyelet on the left front to tie my lacing to. I don't think I'll be able to tie it off behind my back and that seems like the best solution, bringing it over my shoulder and tying it there.

Y'all, what do I do now that I don't have the stays to work on??
totchipanda: (Default)
Isn't it amazing how much better one feels when they get an adequate amount of sleep? The hot flashes have eased so while I've been waking up still it's for a very short period where I don't want to peel out of my skin and can get back to sleep fairly easily. Very glad it's the weekend when I can do what I want!

Laundry was done'd, and I completed approximately one strip of tape over the seams before calling it a night. Last night, I finished the taping. The next step was the bust rail, but I was under a cat and could not be bothered to disturb her to get that sorted, so I moved onto the next one which is... BINDING!! AT LAST!!!! I wanted to do leather but I think the amount I need is going to cost more than I really want to spend at this time, so I'm using cotton tape. It's 1/2" instead of the recommended 3/4" but I'm just gonna make it work. Got the top line all secured and fixed up the tab areas where I had had to unpick basting. By then the cat had left on her own so I got the tape and started laying it on. And by THEN it was almost 10:30 pm, my thread was tangling and breaking, and it time to call it a night!

I have more plans for stays (I WILL make Augusta work, I WILL) so I can revisit different materials later on. I definitely want to try linen buckram since this very tightly woven cotton is sturdy, but it's so hard to stitch through. It might be less of a bloodletting for me, we shall see.

Weekend plans are to continue unfucking my habitat and keep on keeping on. Stays stitching for sure, and perhaps I will attempt a bit more bag making. Or some clothes sewing because the weather has gotten v warm indeed.
totchipanda: (Default)
Finished stitching the seam allowances down and pressed them as flat as I could. Restitching them back together is going much slower for various reasons - thicker thread, more closely spaced (I've measured them at 15 st per inch with doubled thread, pattern suggests 18-25), and the cotton I used for the support layers is SO TIGHTLY WOVEN that getting a needle through it is hard enough without the extra thread thickness! I need a needle that is both sharp and sturdy without being too thick. I got a few inches sewn before the thread broke and I called it a night.

IN other news, J sent a video about a building on fire in the city, not far from M's work. At first it was just filled with smoke billowing into the air. He sent videos of a smoke cloud when he was a good 50km (30 miles) from the city wondering if that was what he was seeing. He sent another video of the building well and properly on fire, and then the roof and front (or back?) collapsing in on itself, engulfed in flames.

According to news sites, ash and debris were falling all over, but the few fires that caught on other buildings were extinguished before they became dangerous. It's been so dry and windy these past few days, which did not help (except that the immediate area around it was recently excavated so there was no bone-dry grass to catch) and the building was old and made of wood. Eleven crews were out to contain it while it burned The good news is that no serious injuries were reported, no other significant damage to anything nearby.

I am having a lot of capital F Feelings about this fire because A: it was incredible (neutral) and B: the building was... well it was old. It was an airplane hangar built in 1942 by the US to support war efforts in WWII. The airport it was attached to closed several years ago and the airfields have been under redevelopment, and the whole area was and is an important part of the city's history. The building was declared a historic landmark in 2022 and now it is just... gone. The only one like it left now is the aviation museum.
totchipanda: (Default)
On Friday I got home DETERMINED to do some sewing. I wanted to make another project bag, particularly for the shawl I've just started. The one that I wound yarn for the other day. During lunch I got it up to the point where I would start the decorative elements and it has been living with my sock knitting, so it was time for it to have its own bag.

The absolute irony that I was in the midst of sewing the bag when I thought, I need to get a drink, turned from the machine and found the sock bag on the floor, clearly devoid of the shawl project. "Oh no," said I, picked up my water bottle and went in search of the kittens. Where I found my project in the middle of the hall, partially de-needled, its string leading to the remains of the ball and then the giant pile of spaghetti tucked up against the chair just inside my bedroom door. Quickly scooped it all up and shoved it into a space away from their prying claws (I want to say it was back into the sock bag but I honestly can't remember now). Got my water, finished my new bag, put the mess that was to be a shawl into it, and hid it under a blanket.

Fortuitously, I had another aunt's birthday party the next day where she has dogs but no cats, perfect for trying to untangle the yarn. I arrived at 2:15, and at 4:45 (with a break around 3 for lunch) I finally got the last knot out. I was hand winding it into a ball because there was no WAY I'd be able to use the winder with how much "and now the ball has to go through here..." was going to be going on. I'm going to rewind it soon. Currently I'd like to get the socks pushed through, and also perhaps the other shawl project I couldn't finish due to lack of yardage, which is currently on the needles I want to use. So there's that.

Saturday morning I started pulling apart my stays so I could fell seams down. And overhand all of the places where I cut the tabs to the basting line. Don't do that! It took most of the weekend to get 8 out of 10 panels done, with more bag sewing in between. My zippers arrived so I excitedly finished off the wristlet I'd made the week before, sans zipper, and then a pyramid bag for socks yesterday once the kittens let me up from the couch (they were so cute and sleepy, to make up for the absolute terror they reigned on my knitting).

I am headed south this weekend for an expo, and y'all I am STRESSED about it. I have a fistful of dollahs to my name for the next two weeks and this trip is going to eat up all of them, and more. Why not cancel, you ask? I'm so glad you did.

A: my tickets are nonrefundable (unless the guest cancels, which is still a possibility). That's $176 I'd be out of pocket regardless.
B: I am the driver. I don't want to force M to find alternate arrangements, plus eat the cost of the hotel.
C: Her friend is coming up from Colorado for this. I don't want to force HER to find alternate arrangements too.

M offered to help with some gas costs and I plan to ask my friend who is vending if I can borrow some $$ to keep myself fed. I knew this was going to be tight, budget wise, once I agreed to getting the dental work done and after paying my taxes, but I didn't really have an idea of HOW tight. It hurts. I'll get through it, but ouch.
totchipanda: (Default)
The extra bit of space in the back was good, but the side got pinchy, so last night I angled those seams out too. Interestingly that made the front and side front panels want to angle out too. I think I'm ready to call it good and go ahead with the pressing and felling.
totchipanda: (Default)
Crown is settling into "normal". This morning I forgot it was even there.

Yesterday I took all of my yarn winding supplies and two hanks of yarn to work. So much easier without tiny paws and teeth to help! I am now set to start knitting my April socks (yes, more than halfway through the month). Even tried to start knitting, but it took a while to get the cast on done (bc kitten), and then to start the ribbing (bc kitten; also it was complicated). I dropped one of the cast on stitches, said fuck it and ripped it all out. I'll try again on my lunch break.

Leimomi suggested starting the curve of my stays higher so I took out the stitching a couple of inches on each back seam and angled them out to about 1/4" each. FOOLISHLY I had already cut to the basting line of which this new seamline goes through in a couple places, and it looks ridiculous for binding. A lot of the POF5 stays have canvas reinforcing along the tab edge, so I think I'll be making use of that technique. Did not try them on because I didn't want to fuss around with putting the shift on. The temperature dropped yesterday and I was so cold.
totchipanda: (Default)
Friday night I finished the bag I had been working on, finishing up around 9pm. It's so stinkin' cute! The fleece adds a lot of structure, while the polar fleece one was softer.

Saturday morning I decided IT WAS TIME to fit the stays. First I had to sort out the ball of ribbons that had developed from over 3 years of being in a box, which the kittens enjoyed. Found some options to put into the bags, which were separated from the rest and I'll deal with those anon. Found a length of 1/8" poly ribbon that was juuust long enough to allow me to lace the stays from the front, loosely enough that I could still spin them on my body into position. I tied the top end to a metal knitting marker (shaped like a cat!) to allow me to pull it free without struggling to find it, and keep it from slipping back out.

First, I had done all of my fittings so far with the stays laced top down, and this time it was bottom up which really did make a difference. IMMEDIATELY it pinched in the back hip and I couldn't wear it for long. All of the back seams needed opening up a bit and so did most of the tabs. I marked changes with a Frixion pen and took it off. I continued to feel the ghost of pinching for most of the day and did not pick it up again.

Thought I might read a book, but I wanted a particular bookmark that has been lost since the first week the kittens were with me, so obviously I can't read the book lol. Spent a few minutes trying to find it, maybe, it had a tassel and they made it disappear. It's probably with the sparkleballs, of which I found one under the entry way table. Took a nap instead. In the evening, I made most of a wristlet, now just awaiting a zipper, and then spent some more time looking for the Kindle, which i hadn't seen in a few weeks! In searching, I found a sparkleball inside my covers (how?!), and then the Kindle right where I expected it to be only it had slipped down and was on an angle with the non-covered side facing out, so I hadn't seen it right away.

Sunday I made my changes to the stays and tried them on again. It was better but still not great. I think I need to add another lacing hole on the right side and lace them less farther down, possibly remove some length at CB. Thought I would pull them apart and start securing down seam allowances, but then Calcifer claimed them as a nap spot and I left her to it. I browsed my patterns but I couldn't decide on anything else to work on, not even another bag, so I just played video games instead until it was time to leave.

Evening with M was great. We went to a local restaurant which has chicken pieces the size of my arm for dinner, which is very popular and we had to wait. The inside was tiny and crowded and hot so we sat outside (it was so nice out yesterday) and adored all of the dogs we saw before taking our prizes back to her place. It was DELICIOUS! Then we sat down and started making friendship bracelets, which we'd planned to have many to hand out at our event in 10 days but we almost certainly won't lol. Oh well, it was fun anyway.

I am supposed to see my dentist today, but if the crown isn't ready yet, there's no reason for me to come in. I dreamed that the temporary one fell off and then was assisting a friend in documenting her stalker while being later and later and later for my appointment, so hopefully that's just a reflection of my nerves!
totchipanda: (Default)
Except not, because I'm much too far away to get any appreciable view. 34% at max totality, apparently.

Friday: went out immediately, as in didn't even pop in to see the cats first. Gas cost me $60 to not-quite fill my tank (to be fair, it was VERY VERY VERY empty). Groceries at Walmart, only what I could carry in my hands. Pet store in the same complex for cat food, which cost $10 more than the big box store, but I had ice cream so I didn't want to go home, store it, and then go out again. Ordered dinner from a place downtown, forgetting it was a hockey night and parking was RIDICULOUS, my poor driver. Did not sew anything, and was mildly spoiled on drag race before 8 pm.

Saturday: I both woke and got up relatively early, plunked my butt on the couch with the eyelets and watched my zoo show while the cats slept in my lap. Finished those around 11:30 so then it was time to get moving. Went to the craft store first for d-rings (and sliders, since it was BOGO 50%; would have got two packets but they only had one) and then hit the road to the nearby city. Visited with gramma and my aunt for a couple hours and then left, forgoing the alpacas and shopping, but did pop into their Walmart for a potty break (mostly) but also a quick peruse through the shelves. Their grocery section is MASSIVE! I bought gluten-free soy sauce so I can make a dinner I've had planned for a week and a half. Once I got home I put the D-rings into the bag and finished stitching it, then started clipping and stitching the stays together.

Sunday: Finished stitching the panels together in the morning, which absolutely DESTROYED my fingers. The cotton interlining is not very thick but it is VERY tightly woven and I didn't have a needle sharp enough to pass through easily. Very glad of my decision to cut the two layers out of the eyelet area (which was tricksy to start with, I wish I knew where my stiletto was to start the holes). My thumb pad is still super sore and I feel like I should practice more grip with my left hand. Anyway, then I tried it on but did not take any photos as my phone was at like 3% and charging. My lace is plenty long enough once I'm in, but to get it on I have to skip the last three holes. I will have to do it again, this time with a shift on, to properly assess fit, but I think my lower back still gaps a lot. I tried to shift it higher on my body but I'm not sure if my incomplete lacing caused pressure where it shouldn't be, and I couldn't get the top evenly done since I didn't pull out the mirror to adjust it. More testing required, but I also pulled out my cotton Amalia jacket for a fit test, and it was fine - better than fine really, the bust is very low (since the top edge just covers the nips and provides no lift) and I had a much larger overlap than when I made it/wear it with later stays. Photo of the laid-out stays is on Instagram!

Baked a loaf of GF bread, washed a pan of dishes, spent some time video gaming and knitting. Knitting was a bust, ultimately, because Calcifer stole the ball I was working with and ran off with it. We had a tug of war until the strand snapped and she took her prize into the tub. Really couldn't have been bothered with eating "a meal" and made egg toast. Tidied up my sewing area a bit and tried to plan another bag -- same pattern or something different?? Waiting on an Amazon gift card to add to my account to get the majority of the supplies I need to really get going.

First dental crown appointment today, then I am going to the mall (which is SO CLOSE) to get soap with my mall-specific gift card, and to see a movie with my sibling. We're going to the earlier show because we can, so I might even be home by 7pm.

Next steps with the stays are to finalize the fit, then remove all the whipstitching (all done in recovered poly thread anyway), press and secure the seam allowances, and re-whip the panels together. Then it's just finish touches, like the taped seam covers and binding!

(yawn)

Mar. 11th, 2024 08:17 am
totchipanda: (Default)
Bc why would I sleep like, ever?

Friday: wasn't sure if I would sit on the couch for a bit, but as soon as I got home and saw my bed, I crawled in and stayed there. Watched a whole bunch of Drag Race and crocheted the coat for the Grogu doll I was working on earlier this year (which was started in 2020). Totally finished it too, except for the button. All that was left was ears, stitching them on, and putting a lil mouth on.

Saturday: Took a cup of coffee into the living room and said "hello room I haven't seen in three days". Pulled out a shift, cut the tabs open, basted the upper edge of the stays down, and laced them properly through every hole, not just every other one. The waist feels like its in the right position, I waved my arms around to evaluate pinching and rubbing and it didn't shift, I still feel like I could move it around just by slouching or what-have-you, but otherwise it felt good. The bust seems SO LOW, even though it's definitely in the right spot. The edge is at mid-bust height, and I get some small upward lift which just feels like my boobs are being held just so and not flopping around OR being squashed. Next step might have been try on a dress or sommat over top but... nah. That was too much work.

If anything, I might shorten the back a touch and take in the bust area another half inch tops. The stays could lace closed and the lacing strips are more or less the same size as the back panels. I didn't wear the stays long enough to get a good sense of how they might wear over my hips, particularly at the back, though I did poke my fingers around back there and it might be OK. For the bust I really should make a size 38 and allow a touch more room for the bust at the front (basically an FBA). Otherwise, full speed ahead!

After nancing about in the stays for a hot minute, I played a video game until it was time to leave to meet my sister at the museum. She and her bf came down for my sibling's birthday lunch and they wanted to do touristy things, so we chose the museum. They have an exhibit on Angkor right now, with displays of pieces from the site and it was just so cool. Then we went through the human history (of Alberta, specifically) which covered pre-colonial contact up until very recently. It was very neat, and at times very uncomfortable (as it should be). I liked that the very first display we get upon entering the gallery is an ancient stone and an informational board in Cree.

We parted ways for a bit as our planned time of 1pm didn't work because the restaurant didn't open until 3 (which we discovered at... 11:30). I went to a local thrift store which does sizing by inches in non-gendered section and payment is by weight. They had a special this weekend of fill a bag for $35, so I took my giant IKEA bag and filled it! I got 6 pairs of pants (2 ladies, 4 mens; the mens pants are all wool and I figured I could cut them down with a pattern that I know works for me), three lenghts of fabric (a pink tablecloth? that's really sturdy, a length of muslin, and a length of white denim that might have been used as a curtain), and a couple of notions, all for $40. Three of the pants don't fit well, but that's ok! I can use them still.

Went home for a snack before heading out again for the lunch, and then after we left there I picked up cat food and litter and went to my dad's place to visit with some people who were up for both lunching and taking some stuff away ahead of my dad's move next week (they have been in their place since 2013 and recently discovered a huge crack in the living room floor, so the complex offered them another unit to move into completely). And then I went home. I was bushed! Barely made it through a movie while I did laundry and finished one of the doll's ears.

Sunday: Daylight savings, whyyyyyyyyyyy. Could not be assed to get out of bed at all until 11am. Spent the entire day in a very horizontal position on the couch. Finished the second ear, stitched both on and got the button for the jacket on, so the doll is 100% finished woohoo! Had a nap before heading out later in the day (almost 6pm) to take M out for dinner and then go to the Disney Immersive thing. It was neat, not a lot of people there (which we liked and that's probably why we booked it so late in the day lol) and while not quite what I expected, we enjoyed it. Home by 9pm and straight to bed.

Woke up at 4:30 AM today and couldn't get back to sleep, so coffee is my best friend and I will not be doing a whole lot of thinking when I get home. Or now, even. Thank goodness for video games and knitting.

Stays pt 3

Mar. 6th, 2024 08:08 am
totchipanda: (Default)
Got the mirror out and tried it on again. As expected, the lacing was in a /\ formation, with just enough bust support to make me feel like nothing was going to fall out, exactly, but hoo boy it was not a sure thing at all. AFTER I made and ate dinner (winning!), I took in a couple seams at the bust line where I could and tried it on again. Much better this time! Still /\ laced but less dramatically, and I could loosen it up a bit to avoid the "squished UP" look.

I think some of the fit could be attributed to the lacing strips, which are steel boned. I should have a closer fit with bendier plastic. They are cross-laced and I was using a bit of upholstery rope which was not long enough so had laced it very sparsely. I guess now I need to decide if I want to finish the back properly and fit that too or just forge ahead.

So far I am finding this MUCH easier to fit and make than Augusta. Make of that what you will.

On Monday I was browsing the internets for stays in general, and found two other patterns I've never heard of before!

Duchesse 1760s stays by Karmayxlia
Comtesse 1780s stays by Karmaxylia (both of these are US 0-22 sizing)
Freja stays by Runfridr Costumes (3 size packs, link is to 46-54, the middle size)
totchipanda: (Default)
Hyperfocus a-go-go! I started marking and sewing channels as soon as I got home yesterday because the light was still good, and finished about an hour later when it was failing. I've been using random thread from my stash (I have a few odd colours that I got from a friend) so bright chartreuse on ivory was really not great to sew with improper lighting. After that it was boning (with help, naturally) and clipped all the panels together, then located the zipper foot to stitch. Lastly, it was find the lacing strips I pulled off an old corset ages ago and figure out how to stitch that in place so I could try the thing on.

Then try on! Whee!! Initial fit appears to be good. I did not get the mirror out so I can't fully assess the fit yet. I'm pretty sure I have a /\ gap, which I expected. It was decently comfortable, the first tab at the side front curved against my belly and I could sit without being poked anyway. Waved my arms around in full circles to test the motion and if there was any poking. I *think* I might want to cut the underarms down a smidgen and definitely need to get the waist situated in the right spot before making any final decisions. Overall, pretty happy with how it's turned out so far.

And THEN I realized that it was like 8pm and holy hannah I haven't had dinner yet! I didn't even make a proper meal, I scavenged some snackies from the cupboard and fridge and called it a night not long after. Whoops? (and my care team doesn't want to poke the bear with adhd testing...)

New stays

Mar. 4th, 2024 02:39 pm
totchipanda: (Default)
I've been wanting to remake a whole lot of my historical underwear and support layers for months now, and had been putting it off primarily due to impending move (in the summer) and then diet changes (feeling much better by being GF but wasn't sure how that would affect my body; maybe it's too soon to tell being only 3 months in but so far nothing has changed! I just feel better). Scroop put out the Cassandra stays recently, fully boned 5-panel stays intended for 1760-80, which I bought and printed out before my vacation. I found a couple short lengths of sturdy fabric in my bins and had them out, but during that week I had no interest in trying it.

But no longer! I got it cut out this weekend. I was going to use this nice burgundy bottomweight but was pulling on it before even unfolding it and it has some lycra content! Can't use it for something that is not meant to stretch (but will make an excellent pair of jeans when I get around to that). So I went with a firm twilled cotton and a mystery jacquard in a really horrible 90s couch print lol. It's almost certainly poly and is in my stash especially for stay-making, and for a mockup its perfect. Firmly woven, non-stretch, I had a meter of it. Sold.

Kittens helped of course. Calcifer thought it was great fun to bunch up under her paws, and also ideal for running into and sliding along over the floor where I was pinning and cutting.

Pieces are cut and basted, back panels and front panels are fully sewn and boned (snrk), and I got one side panel to the same before it was too dark to really see what I was doing. I'm 99% sure they will be too large over all, but it's a good starting point.

I was also getting serious neck strain hunching over the machine. When I stopped and decided to stretch, my right shoulder was in agony! I didn't realize it was so bad, and I couldn't figure out why it hurt so much for a good two hours before remembering that I'd had to unearth my car from 8" of snow earlier in the day. It had been compacted a bit from the wind that had come with the snow so... it was a task.

And the reason I'd decided to unearth the car was because I wanted/needed to go to the library (to pick up a book I had on hold) and the store (because I had no cheese or coffee cream). And what I got for my trouble was sliding around on my crappy summer tires and bouncing off a curb. I THINK the car is fine, I found a scrape on the rim but not the tire and I finished my trip without any issues. Of course I can't be sure unless the tire explodes or falls off or whatever. I need to have it tuned up before a long trip next month anyway.

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