totchipanda: (Default)
I have every intention on writing more detailed posts about my vacation, but what is more fun for me at the moment is writing :D

Work was NUTS even though it was only three days! One person has covid so we are covering her, and then the main person in another area had tummy issues so was out too. We made it work. And in good news, we had a cover person who was at least there to be a body, and she plowed through my project, which is now FINISHED!!! ITS DONE ITS DONE ITS DONE!!!!!!! There is one more large-ish project she was helping me with yesterday, but it's not nearly on the scale of 1600-ish safety manuals!

It's a long weekend here, so I am trying to get into my hobbies (on recommendation of my therapist) and have a sewing day planned tomorrow. While starting on the mountain of laundry, I cleaned up the sewing room a little from the hair styling and photos I did before I left, and retried my blazer on. One sleeve was unattached, so I reduced the seam allowance a bit to make it wider, and shortened it before sticking my arm into it. And really, I need to do a full bicep adjustment rather than make a larger size, so my pattern got sliced up for that and 1" added overall. Then i folded the unaltered pieces and put them away, moved the altered ones to the side, and thought about what I should do for the sewing day!

I pulled up my list for ideas. Nothing is really calling out to me, at least not for a day at someone else's house, but I should definitely bring a bunch of paper to trace out a mantle pattern, and maybe I can work on a pair of pants. I did think I should make another pair because the dress pants I put on on Wednesday refused to say above my belly and it was fucking annoying.

That also got me thinking about a modern wardrobe again... even if I do want to pursue late-1930s-Hungarian-man, I would also be happy with modern pieces. I'm bored of all of my current shirts and sweaters. I still don't know if I want to wear a full frame bra (I wore only soft ones while on vacation).

Anyway, I decided that perhaps I will join the Edwardian train that a large part of Instagram is on. I already have pieces finished and started for that. I have drawers, a petticoat and a skirt done (except for closures, as usual), and a blouse started. The cuffs are pinned for hand stitching over the sleeve, so I was going to do that but I can't find the thread. (I just realized that there is probably a bobbin prepared, at least) Then I thought that I was hungry and I should have something to eat, and while I'm at it I'll noodle about the overall look!

So I still need a proper corset and padding. I purchased Wearing History's bust padding some time back. I have Black Snail's shirtwaist pattern and their free bustle pad pattern. I still want to make a vest, which was drafted out of the 1895 Keystone guide, but won't start that until I have the rest of it wot goes underneath. A big-sleeved jacket could be in the future too (actually I think that would be super fun!)

Ok i took a nap and did some other stuff since that paragraph, and I realized my thoughts are scattered. I love the idea of a shorter under-petticoat (ala thelacedangel on ig). I love the idea of more petticoats in general. I need a chemise (though truly, I can make do with a Victorian one if needed). I need a corset cover (I found a scrap of the same fabric the drawers are made of! It's probably not enough but I can still try!) Perhaps a princess slip? I like looking at period shopping catalogs to get an idea of what was considered necessary, and there is always whitework petticoats near the chemises and coloured petticoats nearer the skirts, leading me to believe both were worn.

  • Chemise
  • Corset
  • Padding (bust/bum)
  • Drawers
  • Corset cover
  • White petticoat
  • Coloured petticoat
  • Shirtwaist or blouse
  • Skirt
  • Vest
  • Coat


And then if I want to get fancy, ballgown versions! This stunnnnniiiinnnnnngggggggg extant is on my wishlist. I wants it!
totchipanda: (Default)
Saturday I made the pattern changes I wanted to try and made another mockup. I thought I might go straight to a wearable one but... no. And I'm glad I didn't because I still needed some tweaks.

Version 3 changes:
Added 1" height to CF for belly
Added 1" to CB for booty
Took in a larger dart
Cut a size 12 waistband at CB ONLY
Still needed to stitch it in closer to a size 10
Sewed in the pocket lining as a proper pocket to determine if it gapped or not (it does not)

Fit was much better. The waistband sits above my belly button now and nicely in my lower back. The front clearly shows drag lines still from my belly. I don't want to add any more height, so I've moved the bit that I raised back to it's previous position (just raised), which added about 5/8" in width. I've decided to split the single dart into two, and then will need to determine how that affects the side seam, because it's sitting really really really close to where it belongs.

Plus I might need to make some adjustments for thigh, because the fabric (admittedly a very light poly shirt/dress fabric from probably 1993) shows clearly where the thigh breaks. I'm telling you, I should have been tall! Stretch all these leg muscles out a few inches!

Still need some room around my ass, so I lengthened the crotch depth again, and the inseam by 3/4". Did NOT mirror those on the front, as I think it's pretty close to done? Maybe I should though, that might keep the front from pulling so hard over the belly. (I think I can stitch a spacer in the inseam on my current version rather than making a whole new mockup. Again.) Then, once the fit is good, I can transfer it to the pants version, and that WILL get a mockup because there might be some leg fit issues that will need adjustment too.

I really need to find my Fabricland gift certificates, at least one of which is 4 years old, because I really need to invest in some interfacing if I'm going to be making myself lots of pants. I saw an image while I was searching 1940s trouser patterns about using petersham in the waistband, but to the best of my knowledge, that was for a straight waistband, not a shaped one.

Tried on the Wearing History trousers from last summer, with the hem shortened and pinned up. Glad I haven't stitched it yet, because they rest on top of my foot, right at the ankle break. It feels so short! But is that my modern sensibilities? And they're so WIDE. Considering trying to nip them in a little before hemming.

Also finished stitching the velvet ribbon onto the hem! YAY! I tried it on in the living room with NONE of the layers under it, and it puddles a tiny bit yet. As soon as I get shoes on and a petticoat and the like, it should be fine. Just needs closures! I wanted to do snaps and a hook and bar, but I only have tiny snaps. Luckily I don't need to wear it anywhere yet.

Pants resources

While noodling about how to modify the shorts for more butt/thigh room, I remembered I had seen a period drafting guide from around 1900 about "corpulent" trousers (that is, big belly, not necessarily obesity). The first few I remembered I didn't find the information in, but then I DID find one. Direct page link.* The best thing I noted, in reading the drafting directions, was that in lifting the back, one should also extend the crotch depth seam by an equal amount, and blending it out down the leg. Juuust like I've been doing. I'm onto something!

*(also, they are currently under attack from publishers wanting to control how libraries distribute their materials, which the archive has also purchased the license to do so via those libraries. I saw this on Tumblr where one person, possibly also on twitter, said that losing the archive would be like losing the library of Alexandria again. Fuckin' capitalism. Maybe go download your favourites, just in case)
totchipanda: (Default)
Did a quick try-on of the pants this morning to see if I felt like wearing them (no, I did not). They're still too big lol. I added too much height to the back so there's some weird pooching between my butt and the waistband. Something else to fix on the next version. The length was good though, just clearing the floor in bare feet. I will wear them this week to see how it goes.

Perhaps Thursday. Roomie needs to be at the airport at dark o'clock and I will be getting up extremely early to do so. Since it is only a couple weeks past solstice, the sun sets after 9pm still and rises quite early, dark o'clock is *very early*. I took the morning off so I could go home and sleep a bit more.

Yesterday one of my friend groups got together for a picnic, and it was lovely. It was the only nice day all weekend and I haven't seen some of them in a year or more. I missed them all so much.

I finished the hem sewing on the skirt on Saturday, and was debating how I wanted to do the hem. I have some black velveteen in the sewing room (and red, which is not an option), but only one meter, so rather than cut it, I decided to wait. I also have some dark blue, but it is currently buried in one of the bins, and I'm not sure which one. Then I was upstairs getting my laundry and I spied a velveteen ribbon that had been tied around a blanket my roomie gave me, plus she had one for herself, so I had approximately 4 yards of ribbon. It wasn't as wide as the sewing manuals have suggested (2.25 inches) but it should do the trick. I started stitching it yesterday but only got so far before dashing off to the picnic.

Didn't sew quite as much as I hoped to over the weekend, but once I had the hemming done, I couldn't think of what else I wanted to work on, so I played Animal Crossing and took a nap instead.

Changed my sheets and took a shower after. I never think that changing the sheets is that hard until I have to throw the 15lb weighted blanket back on it. Then I'm all sweaty (plus I had been sitting outside for several hours already), and the shower felt great. Also shaved my legs, and I don't think there's a better feeling in the world than freshly shaved legs in freshly changed sheets :D
totchipanda: (Default)
My pants were TOO BIG!! I should have tried them on when the directions said to. I had already stitched it down and finished the legs and pinned up the hems. Dang it!! On Friday (Canada Day) I ripped the elastic stitching out, pulled out almost 2" and stitched it down again. Then I tried them on to determine hem length and finished that too. And I still need to make adjustments. I have too much room in the hip now (sigh), leading me to believe that maybe I just need extra in the crotch area and NOT on the outside area? That'll be for the next version, I guess.

I also tried on and pinned up the Smooth Sailing pants i made last year, but forgot it all downstairs to try on in my room where the only full length mirror currently is. Then I decided to clear of my table a bit and pinned up and pressed the Edwardian skirt, and spent some hours stitching it down which sitting on the couch. It just needs closures now.

Started a top, but it requires interfacing in the waistband, and I don't have any. I will make a trip to the store soon.

Last night I had the worst sleep, including dreams about having to talk to my mother. Hoping to sleep better tonight.
totchipanda: (Default)
After I finished an ep of the Expanse on Sunday, it was back to sewing! Shirtwaist is more or less complete, minus closures (boo hiss), and I need to drop the neckline some. And then of course I needed to put the whole ensemble together to admire it and EHEHEHEHE it's so ridiculous and I love it so much. I'll try to post a picture later, it's just so fun. The blouse is decidedly early-1900s, but that's OK since my target "date" is 1905-1907. Absolutely a farming family on the Canadian prairie would still be wearing things several years out of date.

Next up is hemming the skirt, so I was doing some reading about that. Butterick put out an excellent sewing manual in 1905 covering all the general knowledge that wouldn't be included in patterns bc people were just supposed to know this stuff (and use manuals just like this one). I don't think I need to pad my hem or anything, just turn it up, but I DO want to put braid or velveteen on the hem to protect it. I'm excited to try that bit of dressmaking that almost no one ever talks about.

I signed up for a class about beading a hair clip, though I couldn't actually attend it (I didn't realize it was going to be hosted on Zoom, so I didn't have the app ready and also I was at work), and I downloaded the materials list and instruction sheet to give it a whirl. But from the list, I can't find everything in one store, I'd have to go to at least 6 different ones, ranging pretty much the entire city. OR I could buy it all online together and have it come to my house. Shipping is $15, but I would spend at least that much in gas driving to the stores. But I'm still not 100% sold, and I think I need to wait until next month anyway.

And then because I'm me, I want to bead MORE THINGS!!!! Like a dress, bc that seems fun. Bridgerton got into my head lol. Another option is a set that contains colours besides the ones I need for the clip, which might work out better especially if I keep it up.

On Sunday, for the first time in over two years, our touring Broadway shows are performing again, and we are going to see Hamilton. We have to mask and all, which I am totally fine with, to see actors doing their thing and having the sound of it all directly in my ears. I'm so excited and I will probably cry.

Adulting

Jun. 19th, 2022 01:18 pm
totchipanda: (Default)
I have adulted like a BOSS this weekend!

Saturday: took roomie to work bc she started at 8:30, and entirely bc then I could do stuff on the way home. So I grocery shopped, and then went to the registry to get my important docs replaced (ID, car registration and health care card).

Sunday: laundry. It's a whole day affair, really.

Sewing wise, I finished the drawers, and my fixes were great. I just wish I could replicate them on the other side! So one leg has nicely finished seams with no raw edges anywhere, and the other has raw edges under the lace, and I haven't decided how to finish the lace egde yet. And guess what, the side I did wrong was the side i ended up liking more lol.

Then I decided to work on the blouse, but I lost the front pieces somewhere. So I did the bum pad instead. I'd made a center back piece some weeks back, but hadn't decided on how to do the hips yet. I went with a patent of the Scott hip pad that was registered in 1907. It's super cute and at least on my dress form, it fills in the back as it's meant to.

Today I was tidying up the table and I found the shirt pieces I was missing under a length of fabric I washed a couple weeks ago lol. So I'm working on that, but am taking a break for lunch and to watch The Expanse with my fandom friends.
totchipanda: (Default)
I know I keep saying this, but what is time, really? I could have sworn I posted late last week but uhhhh apparently not.

Did not go grocery shopping until Saturday morning. Left the house around 9. Roommate had already texted at 8:16 to say that the bus people were not a vibe and she was already done with the day. (The bus people apparently were yelling at each other and on the verge of a physical altercation when the driver kicked them off. They had not even left the transit centre yet.) This experience carried over to groceries, but I was done PDQ and home well before 10. Still need more groceries, but nothing so desperate I needed to go out again.

Actually FINISHED the petticoat, buttons and everything!! After groceries, I did an adulting task of getting our internet services upgraded, and then decided to call my car loan holder to update my address and find out my balance. Their wait time was estimated at 45 minutes. Well ok, left it on speaker and sewed on the lace, trimmed, pressed, stitched, restitched, threaded a tape, made buttonholes and sewed on buttons. It is 100% done! But no photos, because I was on hold.

Then I started noodling about clearing off the table so I could tape together a pattern when an agent picked up! Hurrah! Except he couldn't do what I asked, and he had to transfer me to the loans department. Another 45 minute wait. But I did get what I needed done, and I am on track to have my car loan paid off at the end of the year. So that's good.

Laid out the pattern and taped it together, traced a new copy, it's a corset and I was oddly motivated to work on it? Except the only corset-appropriate fabric I have is, predictably, navy. I stopped for lunch and browsed fabric sites for something suitable in white. Debated going to a local store. Decided not to. Taped together the other half of the pattern (drawers) and cut that out. Most of my fabric is packed away in bins and being used as a shelf for other stuff from the renovation. Called it a day and took a nap.

Sunday I wrote a bit, and played my game, and just as I was about to get laundry started, the doorbell rang, and it was our new modem! So spent 20 minutes hooking that up, and then my discord friends wanted to watch some of our sci fi murder show (according to my roommate; we are watching The Expanse lol) and then it was nap time again...

So I didn't sew nearly as much as I wanted to. I hit that weird stage where I wanted to work on This Item But Couldn't Because Reasons And Nothing Else Will Do (tm). Last night I also had a window in which to sew, but didn't because I was (wait for it) napping.

Also, Sunday night/Monday morning I woke myself up by CHOMPING on my tongue, and I was very uncomfortable. Everything hurt in my mouth, the sore spot rubbing against my teeth every time I swallowed (which is rather a lot). It still hurts a bit today, but not like yesterday.

IF, and it's a big IF, we go ahead with this nebulous plan of Edwardian on the weekend of May 21-22, I still have a little under three weeks. I need to hem the skirt. Possibly make a different skirt, that's less heavy and on the correct grainlines. Need to make a shirtwaist. Need to make a combination (cami/drawers). Should have some padding, esp on the hip. I can use a different corset if required, that is not urgent.

But working on something that is not strictly needed is of course an A++ procrastination method so... I really ought to work on the other stuff lol.

I reached a point on my fic chapter that I simply could not look at it anymore and turned it over to my beta/editor. She gave me a lot of really excellent notes and feedback, so I've been plugging away at that too. Hoping to have it complete by hmmm next week. This is the lowest point of my story, and from here it's slowly up up up.
totchipanda: (Default)
Dog sitting is over! I am so happy to sleep in my own bed again. It doesn't shift back and forth every time someone moves (one dog shifts by throwing his weight around, another has to lick her paws for 10 mins) (the spare bed is one that sits on rails with ovoid wheels, it's horrible for motion transfer), i don't have puppies sticking their faces and paws and butts in my face, i can roll around and kick my legs as much as I want, I can lay in bed and talk to my German friend on discord when it's late for me but early for her, and not have to listen to anything (like aforementioned licking)

But I miss them still. It was nice to be around fur babies again.

Sewing weekend was, I think, a success. I finished the petticoat except for one more layer of lace that I didn't have with me (it took foreverrrrrrrrrrrrr bc of gathering 2 ruffles. What was I thinking!) and the drawstring. Then I laid out and cut the Fantail skirt, although I had a total brain fart and cut it on the wrong grainlines. Too late now, and I only had 3 yards which was just enough if I cut it just so. It's all sewn together too, except the hem and closures. I need to hang it to stretch the seams first. And hilariously, including cutting it took like 3 hours to make, whereas the petticoat was like triple that!

Then, I taped together Black Snail's flat-fronted Edwardian corset pattern, cut it out and made a mock-up of a straight size 46. Fit good through the bust and waist, definitely needed more room on the hip. I feel confident to go ahead with a 48/50 to allow room for padding.

Speaking of padding, I definitely need some, the skirt is VERY heavy and it pulls at the back. Gonna need a small pad to help take the weight of it.

Tonight I said I would go grocery shopping, and then... we shall see. I'd like to get more sewing done, but I am very tired lol. I was exhausted at like 7pm and purposely waited to go to bed so that I wouldn't be up at 1am, but then I didn't sleep right away anyway. Perhaps I will just plan and do nothing instead haha.
totchipanda: (Default)
Alas, vacation time is never long enough! Mine was even cut short bc my cover person is off this week, chatty coworker left, and the other person walked out last week. I could have refused, but since I planned to do very little and my dental appointment was in the evening anyway, it was fine. I showered first because I'd been living my best house goblin life and really needed to (cough), and my hair looked amazing.

Dental was rebooked for yesterday morning bc the schedule hygenist had a family emergency. I really liked the guy who worked on me yesterday, he really cares about his work and the people he treats. And of course I like my dentist, he just didn't stay with me for long bc I wasn't there to see him (this time) lol.

Movin' on.

Basement: flooring has not yet been selected, so Friend and I will go to the place to make our selection. I talked to Mom on Sunday about everything, and she was going on about primer tinted "beige" and paint tinted a little darker. I did not inform her that I did not tint the primer, or that the paint I have already purchased is yellow. She's going to picture something bold, like a highlighter, or a deep gold, and I picked the barest shade of yellow possible. I asked my friend about our chances of getting not-beige flooring and she thinks we have a good chance hehehe. We're going to make a date of going to pick it out, I can bring a paint sample.

Mom also said her "OCD" was going off about me doing the finishing work myself. I think she means anxiety/perfectionism. Mom, I have told you before, I did not do any taping and mudding before, but I HAVE sanded and painted. Plus I am also heckin' anxious, so do you think I haven't spent literally hours reading up on how to finish a wall? I have. Please trust me.

But I haven't been back down since that first coat went on. I need more mud and possibly more tape, to move some more fabric and furniture, to look at what we have for sanding supplies. For sure we have paper, but I don't know about a block or anything.

Sewing: ACTUAL SEWING. (Not drywall sewing [personal profile] danabren lol) Friend is missing people and there's a con coming up in May she wants to go to. It's held over the Victoria Day long weekend, which also happens to be my birthday weekend, and our friend works at the historical park in that city, which is ALSO opening on that weekend. Verified that dress up is OK with advance noticed. The park is Edwardian-themed. The last time I was there, I wore a costume pirate coat because it was windy and cold and all I had brought with me was a hoodie and that coat, which was at least wool.

Does this mean I have to get started on a whole Edwardian ensemble to flounce around the park? Oh noooo...

Read more... )

I object to the British terminology for these time periods. What else can we call this time frame?

Profile

totchipanda: (Default)
totchipanda

July 2025

S M T W T F S
  1 2 3 45
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
2728293031  

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated Jul. 5th, 2025 03:25 am
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios