totchipanda: (Default)
Repairs to the bathroom were completed, and then I discovered that the curtain I put up has already been rendered next to useless thanks to the kittens. I've scooped it up and over the rail to hopefully discourage them from playing with it.

Temperatures are soaring here, which, while nothing like the US south and eastern heat dome, is still very unpleasant. My bedroom is on the south side where it gets blasted with sun pretty much all day. I don't leave my windows open much because I worry about the kittens climbing the screens and/or tearing them loose and escaping, not that open windows on the sunny side help that much. Thankfully the other major windows are south but covered, and north so I can get some cross-breeze. It's gonna be a week of managing windows and laying low, sometimes quite literally.

Weekend of doing absolutely nothing. On Saturday I mostly played video games and looked at my Regency patterns. Sunday was more of the same, with slightly more energy spent on stays, fabric hunting, and a quick jaunt partway across the city for more fabric. My aunt's former landlady had received a bunch of fabrics and I wasn't going to look at them, given that I am trying to downsize my stash, but then she said the magic words: wool-silk. NYYEERRRROOOOOOOM! They are a lovely green and red (separate pieces), both with pale gray pin stripes and utterly delightful to touch.

The only real sewing/crafting related anything that I did was to start by pulling out my regency patterns and Carolyn's book Stitching La Mode. I THINK I can get away with her 1794 apron gown and open robe (though not exactly, it's a good starting point). Comparing pieces, Laughing Moon's chemise gown is a good base for that gown. I looked at their stays as well but couldn't really decide on anything, plus Calcifer was SO HELPFUL and attacked both the instruction book and the pattern itself.

"Why do you have to bite everything??" I asked her. "Bite bite bite!" while poking her with my fingers. Reader, she bit me.

On Sunday I pulled out the projector and the old laptop and loaded up the Bernhardt stays pattern, view C. I had to put the projector on a stool and back it up pretty far to get the square to the right scale (kittens again helped, naturally). Hot damn (literally), that thing puts out of a lot of heat! I have exactly two walls best suited to pattern tracing, both of which are blocked by the table, but it was too hot to want to do it anyway! Then I squared up the lines and cut it out. Holding it up to my body, it seems OK to start, but too small in the back. I futzed the lines to include 2" more on each side. It might be too much but. I also will need to move the hip dart or add another one entirely. "B" seems well placed but very unsure about C.

Then I let the kittens have a ball of yarn while I fished out some fabric to make the mock up. IN doing so, I found the silk organza strip I started to roll hem as a ruffle for my Williamsburg Angelica gown, and the yardage of black silk organza left from the brain hat. Stays were not cut out or mocked up, and in fact all I did after that was nap, eat dinner, watch a movie, play some more video games, and finish that one side of the strip.

Definitely going to take it easy this week. I have some library books to read that I really ought to get started on. Another hold is ready, but I sent it to the south library and when I drove by yesterday, their parking lot is entirely ripped up and being replaced, forcing people to park in the next lot over. I really should have sucked it up and gone yesterday bc my brain said it was easier to train down after work and walk, completely disregarding that's just going to get hotter all week until AFTER my hold expires. Alas.
totchipanda: (Default)
By all things blessed and holy, there are events this fall! (wipes away happy tears) My local group is hosting the ball in September, and then my trip in November was planned specifically to coincide with another ball. The only thing I have made is one single dress that already needs to be fixed (the sleeves are in the wrong spot) and everything else was pre-panini so... I'm pretty much just going to start over.

First decision was: what gender do I want to present. I've been wanting to make menswear for myself for awhile, but I really don't mind womenswear when all the layers are needed, so I am leaning towards a dress.

Second decision: dress style. The Bridgerton show had not come out yet at my last ball so I am expecting A LOT MORE SHINY at these upcoming ones. I've done the long column look and I've done some round gowns, and given my new interest in dressing for my body type (theatrical romantic), I want to do a more 1790s transitional look, with a little lower of a waistline than directly under my boobs. (Someday an English court gown, with the side hoops because they are *so* ridiculous, but as my love pointed out, it would likely make dancing difficult lol.) So I am looking at a floofy floofy dress, most likely in white, with a coloured bodice, gown, or sommat over top. It will be FLOOFY and it will be LORG and probably very TALL with feathers (or perhaps not, I found a turban look with only two squiggles of hair at the front, which I could easily do with my natural hair) and hopefully SPARKLY. My only requirement is no train, because that DOES make dancing difficult.

Third decision: New stays! I've been wanting to do this for awhile anyway, so here we go. My last pair was made with Laughing Moon's pattern, which is excellent but as most things for me, too wide on the shoulder. No wait, lies, my last semi-regency pair was inspired by [personal profile] chocolatepot's Cherry Hill stays, which I mucked around with too much and they ended up being too small. And since these bits are all 5+ years old, I'm not even going to bother trying things on.

Options of which I own/have access to/are free:
Laughing Moon remake (long or short)
Cherry Hill remake/similar style drafted from a body block
Bernhardt stays
Corsets & Crinolines (Is there anything in here? IDK, I have access to it)
Saying heck with it and using a later prow-front stay, like Augusta.
I might still have the RH stays pattern kicking around (go ahead and laugh. I'll wait.)

Options I do not own:
There are many more options available now that were not available 5+ years ago, both for sale and for free, and they are easy to find. Go forth and behold.

Of the readily available options, I am most interested in the Bernhardt stays and redoing Cherry Hill. And potentially Augusta, especially if I can repurpose one of the pairs I already made. (If I can even find them.) (Yeah ok, that's not really an option right now.) I was thrilled to get a projector *specifically* for ease of scaling up the Bernhardt. Potentially... it's not the look I want for a 1790s dress.

Decisions 4-7 to make after stays are at least under way:
New shift? (Finish the ones I started which will need some work bc they are WAY too open in the neckline?)
Dress style + fabric + decorations
Over-item style + fabric
Hair and accessories

I think a month should be enough time to get the stays sorted out, so that's what I will work towards. Everything else will come after!

I'M FREE

Apr. 7th, 2022 09:34 am
totchipanda: (Default)
On Tuesday I was still really congested until later in the day, and Wednesday I had a normal amount of congestion, so I was cleared to go back to work! WOO HOO! Yesterday was also the first day I had enough energy to get through my whole day in a definitely-upright position. Man it feels so good to not be sick anymore!

My German friend, with whom I share another fandom with, was interested enough with my talk of Bridgerton to watch it. She said season 1 was boring (that it was a long lead up to answer the question of whether or not to pull out, and also that lovely little sexual assault -_-). I opined that season 2 was better, and I wanted to watch it again already, so I would watch it with her. We watched 6/8 eps before I went back to work, and we are both deeply invested in it. There was much keysmashing. It was wonderful to share that with her :3

We have now gone on to writing a Regency AU of our shared fandom, and it's just hilarious lol. I have never written a Regency anything before, it's fun to try and mix canon with the AU. I'm hoping to keep it more in the 20-30k range rather than the 65k behemoth I'm also working on.

I haven't (obviously) made any progress with anything sewing wise. My whole 9 days of bedrest was dedicated to resting. I napped a lot and watched a lot of TV, ate when I felt I should, drank a whole lot more, read a book (The Viscount Who Loved Me, unsurprisingly), and just generally lived in my plague cave. But my two friends with whom I have travelled with and am closest to, sewing-wise, and I have decided we need a Bridgerton picnic, full of all the sparkliest, shiniest and most over-the-top clothing we can possible manage. I thought a very fun dress, but then I immediately thought that I wanted to make menswear in the most foppish colours I can scrounge out of our stashes. Satin breeches, a velvet coat. Yesssss.

But I think I'd like to do a beaded or spangled dress for our next ball. I loved the way the one dress moved in episode... 5 I think it was, because I talked to my friend about it and she hasn't seen the last two episodes yet. Yeah I could just raid my friend's stash for her pretty embroidered fabric that she specializes in for her custom work, but I'm me and I want to challenge my skills ;) Have not spent much time looking for that, just because it was yesterday afternoon, and then we were talking about the fanfic au.

I can't watch the last two eps with her until Saturday, but I told her that if she wants, to watch them and text me EVERYTHING as she does so. I've watched them multiple times at this point so I won't need to be watching along for context. I'm so feral for these two characters and their slooooow burn eye-fucking denial of everything until the last moment and also can we talk about that scene at the end of ep 7. Good lord.
totchipanda: (Default)
That I am going to call "productive". It was still Ridiculously Cold (warmest was about -25C) so I said "nope!" and stayed home again.

  • Thought I had solved the fit of the Costume Close Up stays (I didn't)
  • Found the wool remnant I wanted to use for the outer layer
  • Marked a bunch of the holes and weak spots in said wool
  • Pulled out a box of "in progress" items (at least 6 years old)
  • Actually solved the fit of the stays (they were fine)
  • Sorted the 6+-year-old "in progress" items
  • Actually made progress on one of them! It's at the "just needs closures" stage and how the hell do I put eyelets through 4 layers of linen (which I now think is a blend as it got real shiny under the iron) without doing them by hand?
  • Cut out the wool and linen layers of the stays, and basted them all together
  • Cleaned out my sewing desk drawers (side note: does anyone out there want a bunch of vintage rick-rack and bias tape?)
  • Sewed the bodice of my red Regency gown together
  • Finished up a small sample of reverse applique


For the gown, I am SO STUCK on design that this has been on my list for OVER THREE YEARS. I was thinking about it already before going to CoCo in 2017 and had decided to wait so that I could buy fabric in LA. I can't remember if I posted aboit it already so here it is (again, maybe)

I am "recreating" Caroline Bingley's red gown from P&P 2005. I'm not dead-set on a fully accurate movie reproduction. The gown is:

  • the most beautiful shade of red <3
  • Floor-length
  • closed-back/front opening
  • true wrap-front (the opening goes all the way down)
  • has a small it of closure around hip-level so it doesn't gap open
  • pins or otherwise closes under the right bust
  • long sleeves that are rather close-fitting and come down over the hand but do not slouch there
  • more columnar - not transitional; the front skirt is flat and narrow, with the fullness in the back
  • soft-looking (but I'm making it out of taffeta cuz that's what I have and so that's what I'm gonna use!)


I cut the bodice lining and fashion pieces for the back and side/fronts ages ago, mistakenly using gilded linen (oops). I got immediately stuck on how to pattern the front bodice, and the skirts. It sat forever, definitely didn't get worked on during my break, and then yesterday, when I was optioning out my projects, I had even gone so far as to get the pocket hoops out to do a petticoat when I remembered the red dress. And then [personal profile] ktlovely said "red" when I asked for opinions. Ok fiiiiine lol.

Got everything ironed, and the stitched it all together. I'm doing it by hand because I want to (silk is soooooo nice to work with). I'm following some of my goals by being more cautious about the process. I didn't baste the side back edges before stitching, but i DID baste the shoulder straps before same.

Still stuck on the bodice... I THINK if I cut a wrap bodice from a pattern I have (with some mods), and cut the skirts from Laughing Moon 126 but with the front piece cut double with one side straight instead of angled, I can get a true wrap dress.

But... do I want a true wrap dress? Would a wrap-bodice and apron skirt be better? Would my skirt plan actually work or will the straight edge pull out of shape since one side is angled? Do I need a mock-up of my plan before cutting it in my good fabric?

I haven't even started to think about sleeves yet. D:
totchipanda: (Default)
This past Saturday was he ball and it was lovely! My hair didnt turn out even close to what I had planned but overall, I liked it! I got a lot of compliments on my outfit and I'm super happy with how it all looked.




I used Laughing Moon 126 as the base, but instead of a drop apron front, I created a wider front skirt panel and front bib. I cut my fabric for the back skirt at a straight angle so I had to piece the front. I used the AD book as a guide for creating the bib and how to attach the fronts all together.

I also gave a new set of stays a test run! [personal profile] ktlovely started a short stays-along for a transitional style that was under bust. I got out my custom draft from 2016 that didnt fit the way I expected or wanted it to and surprise - it created the shape the group was exploring. I hadn't bound them yet, which was good info because a bunch of the boning escaped. I either need longer tabs or to shorten it off the top. That's gonna be a summer project.

And of course having done a project just means I'm all excited to get to the next one!! Katie also gifted me the Larkin & Smith English gown pattern, that will need fabric decisions, there's going to be a Regency picnic in the summer, the next ball is in early october, I still wanna do more Victorian, fix up my 1830s dress and also do more of that... so many options!
totchipanda: (Default)
Ahhhhhh it feels so good to be sewing again. I have a tiny bit of obligation-sewing too, but easy stuff that brings the satisfaction of a finished object to make you want to do more.

So I have a Pride & Prejudice Ball coming up in less than 2 weeks, and i dont want to wear "this old thing". I purchased another set of Matilda curtains from IKEA to remake my white dress (that got stained and was dyed pink) and finally went YES! NOW IS THE TIME. But instead of remaking it exactly as it was before, I'm mixing it up a little with elbow sleeves and a roundgown instead of a drop front. Which of course just highlights how little I know about roundgown.

Base is Laughing Moon 126, with a trained skirt. I just realised right this second how I messed up the skirt cutting out. Oops. Oh well, piecing is period! No one will notice, I plan to distract with accessories! I'm still not wholly decided on my front and how to construct it but I have time.

Most amazingly, Guido was having a VERY deep nap and didnt stir at all to come help while I crawled around the floor to layout and cut.

Opinions?

Mar. 11th, 2017 10:43 pm
totchipanda: (Default)
I'm pretty sure I know what I want -- no, need to do. The top petal is closer to my inspiration image but is harder to make. Red thread obvs won't be there when I make this for real but was useful for the test. I need a MINIMUM of 48 of these things, but maybe as many as 70. I'm not confident I will have these done to have on my gown before March 25th. but darnit I'm gonna try.



I need to do the thicker piping, don't I...
totchipanda: (Default)
I made about 75% of a new Regency gown today. I have a ball to attend next month and I cannot wear the same dress for the fourth time in a row! (Even if I have wicked accessories for it.) If anyone has any ideas of trim for a steel blue/grey satin gown, I'd love to hear it! ETA: Found a great idea!! Now to figure out how to make it.

The fabric is so annoying though, it ripped across the width BEAUTIFULLY, but it refused to rip on grain >:C The only time the panels were the same size was when they were back-to-front. As soon as they were right-sides-together, they were off by 3" on opposite corners. UGH. I think I cut them too long for me anyway, so I squared up one edge and will just have to see how the hemming goes.
totchipanda: (Default)
I sort-of have a plan for this month's HSM challenge, Historicism. I want to make a Victorian NF dress with Watteau pleats. The issues are:

Fabric choices
Tea gown vs 3-pc outfit

If I do a tea gown, I have a fabric reminiscent of the Waverly curtains, and someone at CoCo a few years ago did a watteau-backed tea gown that was fabulous! I have the TV pattern.

If I do the outfit, I want to use the diagrams in Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol 1. I'm just having a hard time envisioning what the fabric will be. The diagrams used bordered fabric, of which the only one I have is white with a large border. Maybe I have one that will work? I don't know if I have enough of it. I would need a minimum of hmm let's see... Evangeline was 4m with no overskirt or decorations of any kind. I would like to have double that. Eek D:

I am learning what the term "dress-length" means haha.

ETA: My three options are 7m, 11m, and 8m :O This might be doable after all! I think they are all at least blends, however, and more likely poly :(

ETA2: Pictures of said fabric! Top to bottom: 7m, 8m and 11m.
Probably huge picture )

============

Today I went to see a couple movies with my brother. Labyrinth was playing as part of a family-favourites series, so for $3 it was well worth our time and effort. Then we stayed for a showing of Kubo and the Two Strings. When I got home I took a two-hour nap, because I'd gone to bed around 2am and got up at 7:30. Now I'm feeling a little out of sorts still, though I've been awake for over an hour now.

Tomorrow is some gardening (as long as the weather cooperates? Not sure.) and sewing with the Regency ladies. I think I'd also like to get the open robe started, the fabric has been earmarked for that since I got it in spring 2014! Or perhaps I will take my swallowtail jacket. It's been procrastinated long enough, so I started working on the eyelets last night. I need a better awl, mine is so tiny. I have to use 3 different knitting needles to get the hole wide enough after.

Next week is my dance performances, so I also need to be practicing!
totchipanda: (omgwtf?!)
I had a really awesome day! I spent the larger portion at our living history site, where my friend is the costume director, sewing a corset with a bunch of fabulous ladies :D We had such a good time, and most of us got the corsets into two complete halves before we left. Yay! Then I went to Nicole's, where I cuddled puppies and traced out a spencer pattern in hopes of creating it (or a pelisse) before the ball on Saturday next week.

I'm starting to doubt my ability to create it in time, though. Yes, I have three evenings and Saturday morning. Complicating factors are that I also still need to make a petticoat, and I would also like to make a muff and MAYBE a cloak. I have the perfect idea and fabric for a soft yellow spencer trimmed in red, based on a fashion plate, but all I have is the outer fabric and lining. Nothing with which to trim it, and my budget is still too tight to allow for trimming materials. I'm not even sure what I would need to do it. And I know if I make it, I won't have or take the time to trim it, and then I might never get around to it, and I REALLY REALLY REALLY want that red trimming on it! I have other options -- a bright green wool blend, pale green cotton twill, and a blue suiting (probably poly or at least a blend). I could probably do the bright green easily enough, and the trimming I wanted to put on that was really simple so I could potentially do it another time if needed.

The thing I'm scared of is if I actually seriously don't have the time, or if it's just the velociraptors testing the fences and telling me that it'll be a big failure. Oof I may have just talked myself into the bright green. (OH YEAH VELOCIRAPTORS? WELL YOU SUCK!) I'm gonna think about it overnight, it's time for bed.
totchipanda: (Yay! (Al))
I finished my hem and that means my gown is done :D I finished the vest on Monday, and I still need to make things like a petticoat but the fashion layers are a load off my mind!
Read more... )
totchipanda: (*love*)
Driving 3.5-ish hours to see my gramma today (YAY!) has me feeling mysteriously wiped out, so instead of marking my hem, or working on the vest (bottom edge is sewn together, juuuust started the neckline), so instead I am drinking tea and looking at muffs. Lovely way to spend an evening :D

It seems that fashion plates have an overwhelmingly large bias towards fur muffs, and I luckily have an entire box of white faux fur in the closet. That part is ok. What is now tickling my brain is if I (A) want to use my (rather small) muff base I made a couple years ago, that I think is a touch too long since it collapses in the middle when I stick my hands in it, or do I (B) want to expend the effort to make a new, GIGANTOR muff? I'm kinda leaning towards Option B :D but if I do that, what kind of muff do I want to make? A big poofy round one, or one that's a little flatter? If I make a flatter one, I can add a pocket to hold things if/when I use it for non-Regency things. Ahhh I can't decide!

I still want to make a pelisse or cloak to wear as well. Winter has been really mild so far, but Alberta is land of "Don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes" and I have spent FAR too many winters here to be fooled by continued fair temperatures. The forecast is much the same as today but... I don't trust it. And even +4C is still not warm enough to be outside without some protective gear!

Oh I just found an adorable plate that's tickling my creative side. Yay!
totchipanda: (Yay! (Al))
Squeeee my dress is about 95% done! I just need something to close the flaps, maybe tidy up one seam, and hemming, and it's done! Yaaaayyyy!! I even got all stayed up and tried it on (difficult when I had a Chinese lunar new year dinner food-baby hanging out in my belly!) but didn't take any pictures on me. But I did take a badly lit 930pm photo on the mannequin ;)
Dresssssss (with bonus beret) )

Then I tried on the mockup over top and decided what neckline I wanted for the overbodice, and also gave about 10 seconds thought to what I want to do with my hair (probably a turban). Of course I will have the pineapple as my reticule ;)

Oh I'm so happy with it!
totchipanda: (floppy panda)
ACK I'm nearly ready to cut out my dress but I'm having some serious design hang-ups! I kind of really want a train (even though im terrified of people stepping on it) but first I need to see if I have enough fabric. Do I want loong sleeves? Short? A wide bodice gathered to a small section or a smaller one that's less gathered? All of this needs to be decided like, tonight D: I'm going to trace out the last of my pattern pieces and hope I decide before then...

ETA: I think I'm going to go with short sleeves and moderate train on the IKEA curtains. I have more of it (180" as opposed to 4 yards, the layouts are going to be innnnteresting lol.

ETA 2: CRAP I can't get my layout to work at ALL. Time to try something new. If I cut the panels the full trained length and then cut the sides down and etc. It'll mean side seams and slits but I think I'm ok with that.
totchipanda: (floppy panda)
February snuck up, and it's once again time for the ball*! Last year I made my ball gown in 2 days, and I'd really like to not do that again, so it's time to start thinking about what I'm going to make :D

Sure, I could wear last year's gown. I LOVE it, it's so pretty. But I have new stays, and they're really high on the back, and everything except a wrap gown with too-tight sleeves (and a too-narrow skirt!) shows them.

Oh darn, a new gown :3 And maybe some outerwear?! Headgear! OOOOH IDEAS :D

I'm thinking... perhaps a white gown and a cute little vest? Something bright and fun? I'd really like to make something more challenging than "plain gown, done". Decorations have always been hard for me, and the ball is at the end of the month. Lots of time! But I need to start soon, because my SAD usually kicks in a couple of weeks, so the more I can get done now, the better. I'm also limited to what I already have available to me.

Still super tired but only an hour and a half to go. Maybe gown research will keep me awake long enough to get home :D

*There will be dancing, but my Regency-wife and I vastly prefer the card tables ;) Gotta brush up on my whist! And also YAY another outing for the pineapple!
totchipanda: (Yay! (Al))
I am so close! I finished the eyelets the other day and the cording last night, so today I could trim all the cord ends and stitch the last seams, and the (drum roll) try it on (so I could mark the straps. In retrospect I should have included them in the mock-up). And damn y'all, my Regency boobs look amazing, if completely scandalous without the chemise on too. Mwahahah!

Eta: pictures are of the fronts and backs, corded and ready to go lol. Boobs were too scandalous to photograph!

Pictures! )
totchipanda: (floppy panda)
Got the gussets in, backs stitched and corded :D I was going to start the eyelets too but my hands hurt. I think I'll take some time to knit now :3


Picture! )
totchipanda: (Default)
Sometimes I forget to post here... it's so much easier to take photos with my phone and post them to facebook. But I got really excited about a new project so, here you go.

I'm using the Mantua Maker Regency corset pattern. I made the Sense and Sensibility short stays but I made it in the wrong size and it digs in painfully around my ribs. I already have a dress done (also from S&S) and she says that you can wear it with regular bra, but I like the look much better with the proper undergarments. I guess I have some other posts to make about all of that lol.

Anyway, the pattern discusses hand sewing techniques. We had to move all of our crap to the middle of the floor for a bedbug spray again, so I couldn't really get to my machine and am not 100% where the box of thread and stuff wound up, so I sewed it all together by hand today. Didn't take too terribly long. Probably not much longer than it would have been by machine anyway. Well, I sewed one layer. I need to get to my fabric bins before I can even start the other two layers. I can't really try it on until I get some extra hands to help hold it closed, but what little I was able to determine is that it should fit just fine :3

Here, have some pictures :D )

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