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The trim for my silk sack arrived, and I excitedly pinned some in place with the stomacher ruffles. I don't love-love it, but I don't hate it either. And it's hard to fully judge something from only two small pieces rather than the entire outfit. So on it goes. I'm going to need to find a way to keep the petticoat ruffle upright, as it is already falling over without the added weight of trim. I suspect the answer will be "tack it strategically".

Most of the weekend was spent either watching the roomies play LEGO Star Wars while stitching hems and trimming on top, or watching The Sandman on Netflix while stitching hems and trimming on top. Roomie J asked if I could sew it on with the machine, and while I could, I'm not going to. I have no deadline for this, I fully expect to spend the next four months on it.

Sunday morning, I got all kitted up in chemise, stays, two petticoats and a split rump to measure myself for the Angelica gown, and later in the day took laundry down and traced/cut/sewed a mock-up. I did try it on, though not over any of the underlayers, but like, my measurements were more or less the same. I had at least a hand-span's worth of extra room at the back waist, which seems excessive. I even traced a smaller upper-half size (knowing that it's almost certainly drafted off a modern B-cup block) and did most of the waist-size grading at the front only, and like. What? I'll have to get kitted up again to do the fitting, but this doesn't seem right.

---

On the home front, roomies discovered Friday night that some enterprising wasps have decided to make a part of our home into theirs, accessing a space between the outer wall and the basement window well for their nest. We are confident it's a fairly new development as it is not far from our AC unit and water spigot, and I was out there near both of those perhaps a week earlier. We aren't sure if it's something the condo board deals with or if we do, but Roomie M is potentially allergic (as her mom is, but she has never been stung and we don't intend to ever have that be the way to find out) and also none of us want wasps in our house regardless! She reached out to an exterminator for a quote, but of course it's the weekend and it's not urgent... yet. They have not yet accessed the house itself, but we will be on this this week to get it taken care of ASAP. Our neighbours across the lane had a wasp nest under their stairs, and the condo board's solution was to put spray foam in the gaps. Which did precisely nothing.

In a rental or an outright ownership situation, the solution is obvious. Condo is great most of the time, but this is a little more serious than "who mows the lawn".
totchipanda: (Default)
Semi-rough weekend. I had a low-grade anxiety attack on Saturday that manifested in unpleasant dreams about people making demands of my time and attention, and otherwise "abandoning" me. Last night's unpleasant dreams were different, but still upsetting. I woke up a lot, and would drop back into the same dream. Coffee is gonna get me through the day.

I finished a sewing project! I got into a pattern test so I had finished my mock-up last weekend and started on the "real deal" with my modifications. It is 100% DONE - all facings done, buttons on, buttonholes done by hand (no one look at them, they're not pretty lol), and I even put a hook and eye on. And then, I was about to get dressed up to model the finished look, and decided that I had waited LONG ENOUGH TYVM and put a hook and bar on the skirt too lol. I can't share a photo yet, but ooo let me tell you, I looked goooooood. Now on to pattern hacking!

While I was looking through a period sewing manual, reading about how to finish the edges of a shirtwaist, I found a reference to making a buttonhole in the collar for a removeable collar. My brain went !!! bc I hadn't noticed this detail. I went to catalogues and sure enough - removable collars! So now I am trying to decide on the best look for this particular shirtwaist, and the ones I have planned for this project, to make a collar. I have some voile scraps, even a bit of bias (which is how the edge should be finished according to a 1921 dressmaking manual), that would be really pretty.

I really ought to finish my sacque too, but I got a little hung up on the trimming. I was overcomplicating it by narrow hemming the bands when they will be covered by some kind of trim, so I could just turn them to the right side and let the edges BE FREEEEEE since they will be covered anyway. That's a good couch project.
totchipanda: (Default)
Monday the new printer was delivered! The tech arrived mid-process, and was there for the rest of the day getting it put together. We're waiting for some network-side issues, and an updated program wot manages the print queue, but my old program works, and I CAN print. Huzzah!

I have been TIRED yo. My SAD-depression is less soul-crushing, and I've been sleeping more or less properly (for me). I took naps after work 2 days in a row this week. It took me forever to get my butt downstairs where my dress form is to play with the skirt length of the sacque, but I did it.

I decided to piece in the bottom of my sacque skirts. The back was an OK length, and the front will need an odd looking hem. My next saqcue piece will be a pet-en-lair so I shouldn't have to worry about the length as much when I get around to cutting that. I have one side complete, and just finished the piecing on the other last night. I am not looking forward to sleeve island.

Silk Sacque

Mar. 1st, 2021 08:27 am
totchipanda: (Default)
I think I need to name this project lol. Like my red dress called "Esmerelda".

I finished the petticoat on Thursday evening. On Friday, I played in the sewing room for a bit to try and get a mock up of the bodice finished, and finalized my choices.

Ver 1: Did a narrow shoulder adjustment from my cotton sacque pattern (2018). Not the best results, still too tight in the armscye. I noted that the front was not wide enough, and started modifying my pattern piece (which was my second one that I made to photograph how to do a small bust adjustment on it) but didn't get too far.

Ver 2: used the Amalia jacket pattern. Not super successful, but did help me identify some areas that could be adjusted. Needed more width through the belly. I had widened the strap, but took most of it back out. Small curve needed on the chest.

Ver 3: (Saturday morning) I tried on V.1 again, with stays this time, and took note of how much I wanted to adjust it by. I traced a copy of the SBA and narrow shoulder adjusted pattern first, and then did the full belly adjustment on it kind of arbitrarily. Smoothed out the waist curve, took an inch off the sleeve side of the shoulder strap, and cut a new mock up. And it was great! I still needed some adjustment for the shoulder strap, but its the kind of thing that can be done at the seam. I also decided to take 1/2" out at the top of center back where I was getting a bubble, but I went ahead and cut that straight on my finished lining, so we'll see how that goes.

Onwards! I cut linen, took it upstairs to sew (the basement is coooold, and Saturday morning started out at -2F). So far every single stitch is done by hand. Lining got made, ties got added, fashion front got attached. Of course, I cut the fashion fabric out at least 2 years ago, from my 2018 pattern. I put it on as best as I could, and then pieced in some scrap to fill in the space. It was probably unnecessary, since there will be trim on top of it, but I feel better having done it.

Sunday was the backs! I spent probably 2 hours figuring out the best way to put the pleats down (including a couple coffee breaks). Stitched those down, did the herringbone tacking, the side back seams, and then started the seams for the front skirts.

And bc I cut this all out 2 years ago, I have NO IDEA what I was thinking of when I cut the front skirts. The sides are off by at least 3", and I don't know if that's intentional or not. But I discovered that around 9:30 pm, so it was time to call it a night. This needs to be put on Josephine (the mannequin) to assess whether or not I need to piece in more fabric or not.

Trucking along. I think I could be done by the end of March, sans the loop trim.
totchipanda: (Default)
New printer is coming on MONDAY!! (kermit flail) YAAAAYYYYYY!!! The tech will be here on Friday to finish decommissioning the old machine, which is being recycled it's THAT old and out of demand (we've had it something like 10 years, and it was purchased second hand), and on Monday it is being taken away while the new one is coming in! As of yesterday morning, it has been 6 full weeks since it broke down, and will be 7 by the time its replaced. It will be so nice to have a working machine again!

SAD is in full swing for me, and while I remembered how tired and unenergetic I feel during this time, I forgot about how bad my insomnia gets. I've woken up prior to 3:30 AM two nights in a row and I'm tired yo.

I did sew a little bit more on the silk sacque. I had a zoom sewing date last night and got my waist ties on to the petticoat. If my game goes ahead tonight, I can finish it up, I think. Even if it doesn't. I have to close the one side, hem the pocket slits and then the actual hem. I decided not to make allowances for the short hoop, because I'd get too caught up in waiting for the ~perfect material~. I can adjust it later if required.

One of these days I will join [personal profile] marianme's Saturday morning zooms. I'm usually awake for them.
totchipanda: (Default)
New printer is arriving either late next week or the week after. Very exciting!

I made a short hoop last week for my silk sacque, which I have decided is my next project. I cut it out at least a year and a half ago, so it's time. I wanted the trim in before I started, and even ordered it last year, but it was when Covid was ripping through the Eurasian continent but not North America, and the seller I was buying from was not able to ship inexpensively from Thailand to Canada. I wasn't about to pay $30 US in shipping costs to have $20 worth of trim, and it's been a year now. I'm just gonna start. Adding it later will be a pain, but eh.

Since then, I've received my "good work, self!" gift to myself, Patterns of Fashion 5! The short hoop i was emulating was included and patterned in it. Yessssssss. I used plumbing tubing for the hoop, but it's very stiff and hard to work with, so I will not be using it in the final. Do you want a circle? You can have a circle. Do you want an oval? Well.. you can have a circle!

I had also mocked up a lining for the sacque, trying to sort out my sleeve and shoulder issues. My cotton one drags off the point of my shoulder by around an inch. I tried to take it out the "proper" way by narrowing the pattern but... I doubt I did it right, since the directions I used were for a pattern that sits on top of the shoulder and not behind it like this one. Super tight in the arm, and the whole thing angles back. If I pull the waist into place, I get wicked drag lines. Back to the drawing board.

This week my roommate and I watched all three To All the Boys I Loved Before movies, one per night. It was nice to have a movie marathon like that. And the series is so sweet.

I also decided to rip out a shawl I had been working on but hadn't touched in months. The designer already has my money from the pattern, but she's shown her ass online and I no longer follow her or will support her going forward. I thought (and still am) about designing my own pattern but... it took me MONTHS to design the last one, and I don't love the result. We'll see. I think I'll start a different pattern in the meantime.

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