Adventures in Pattern Drafting
Jun. 29th, 2020 10:30 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
totchipandaI just got word today that I will not be back to work until at least the middle of the month, and more likely longer. I missed my weekly existential crisis last week thanks to a killer migraine, so it's starting a little early today.
I've spent pretty much my entire time off this month learning about period pattern drafting. I made a few bodice mock ups and finally came up with a pair that fit me REALLY WELL, and I'm super pleased about that. The main book I've used is The Practical Designer by Isidor Rosenfeld, whose entire principle is based on proportions. Draft #1 (model size 36) was slightly small but fit well through the shoulder, draft #2 (short and stout 43) was also good, and #3 (size 38, proportioned for 5'8" since I have a long torso) was damn near perfect. #4 was directly patterned as a shirtwaist, and between another drafting system which discussed adding to a "base" for wearing ease and seams, the last two should serve my needs for the project.
I am very much NOT an expert in pattern drafting. I learned "how" from Japanese sewing manuals. This particular book is pretty easy to follow, despite the language being "flowery"
I did need to go to work last week so I was able to print out some of the patterns I purchased after the last time I was in. One of them was Wearing History's Elsie blouse, which did not turn out quite like I expected. Comparing it to my custom draft, something is off about it. Either the upper back is too long, or the back armscye is too deep, and the front armscye is too shallow cuz it pulls under my arm. it's cute, but I don't think its gonna work for me.
Yesterday I drafted skirts. Nearly every book I read on the topic, from the period, uses a "circle" foundation, which some changes depending on styling. I didn't spend too long with it though, and I think I need to shorten them up a bit yet. My petticoat is gonna need a tuck lol.
I know I'm getting a little stressed with all the details of a project I didn't plan, because I keep wandering away to other projects, like draping a new 1830s bodice, and circular drafting for stays, and and and...
I've spent pretty much my entire time off this month learning about period pattern drafting. I made a few bodice mock ups and finally came up with a pair that fit me REALLY WELL, and I'm super pleased about that. The main book I've used is The Practical Designer by Isidor Rosenfeld, whose entire principle is based on proportions. Draft #1 (model size 36) was slightly small but fit well through the shoulder, draft #2 (short and stout 43) was also good, and #3 (size 38, proportioned for 5'8" since I have a long torso) was damn near perfect. #4 was directly patterned as a shirtwaist, and between another drafting system which discussed adding to a "base" for wearing ease and seams, the last two should serve my needs for the project.
I am very much NOT an expert in pattern drafting. I learned "how" from Japanese sewing manuals. This particular book is pretty easy to follow, despite the language being "flowery"
I did need to go to work last week so I was able to print out some of the patterns I purchased after the last time I was in. One of them was Wearing History's Elsie blouse, which did not turn out quite like I expected. Comparing it to my custom draft, something is off about it. Either the upper back is too long, or the back armscye is too deep, and the front armscye is too shallow cuz it pulls under my arm. it's cute, but I don't think its gonna work for me.
Yesterday I drafted skirts. Nearly every book I read on the topic, from the period, uses a "circle" foundation, which some changes depending on styling. I didn't spend too long with it though, and I think I need to shorten them up a bit yet. My petticoat is gonna need a tuck lol.
I know I'm getting a little stressed with all the details of a project I didn't plan, because I keep wandering away to other projects, like draping a new 1830s bodice, and circular drafting for stays, and and and...
