Thurlow V.3
Jul. 11th, 2022 10:44 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
totchipandaSaturday I made the pattern changes I wanted to try and made another mockup. I thought I might go straight to a wearable one but... no. And I'm glad I didn't because I still needed some tweaks.
Version 3 changes:
Added 1" height to CF for belly
Added 1" to CB for booty
Took in a larger dart
Cut a size 12 waistband at CB ONLY
Still needed to stitch it in closer to a size 10
Sewed in the pocket lining as a proper pocket to determine if it gapped or not (it does not)
Fit was much better. The waistband sits above my belly button now and nicely in my lower back. The front clearly shows drag lines still from my belly. I don't want to add any more height, so I've moved the bit that I raised back to it's previous position (just raised), which added about 5/8" in width. I've decided to split the single dart into two, and then will need to determine how that affects the side seam, because it's sitting really really really close to where it belongs.
Plus I might need to make some adjustments for thigh, because the fabric (admittedly a very light poly shirt/dress fabric from probably 1993) shows clearly where the thigh breaks. I'm telling you, I should have been tall! Stretch all these leg muscles out a few inches!
Still need some room around my ass, so I lengthened the crotch depth again, and the inseam by 3/4". Did NOT mirror those on the front, as I think it's pretty close to done? Maybe I should though, that might keep the front from pulling so hard over the belly. (I think I can stitch a spacer in the inseam on my current version rather than making a whole new mockup. Again.) Then, once the fit is good, I can transfer it to the pants version, and that WILL get a mockup because there might be some leg fit issues that will need adjustment too.
I really need to find my Fabricland gift certificates, at least one of which is 4 years old, because I really need to invest in some interfacing if I'm going to be making myself lots of pants. I saw an image while I was searching 1940s trouser patterns about using petersham in the waistband, but to the best of my knowledge, that was for a straight waistband, not a shaped one.
Tried on the Wearing History trousers from last summer, with the hem shortened and pinned up. Glad I haven't stitched it yet, because they rest on top of my foot, right at the ankle break. It feels so short! But is that my modern sensibilities? And they're so WIDE. Considering trying to nip them in a little before hemming.
Also finished stitching the velvet ribbon onto the hem! YAY! I tried it on in the living room with NONE of the layers under it, and it puddles a tiny bit yet. As soon as I get shoes on and a petticoat and the like, it should be fine. Just needs closures! I wanted to do snaps and a hook and bar, but I only have tiny snaps. Luckily I don't need to wear it anywhere yet.
Pants resources
While noodling about how to modify the shorts for more butt/thigh room, I remembered I had seen a period drafting guide from around 1900 about "corpulent" trousers (that is, big belly, not necessarily obesity). The first few I remembered I didn't find the information in, but then I DID find one. Direct page link.* The best thing I noted, in reading the drafting directions, was that in lifting the back, one should also extend the crotch depth seam by an equal amount, and blending it out down the leg. Juuust like I've been doing. I'm onto something!
*(also, they are currently under attack from publishers wanting to control how libraries distribute their materials, which the archive has also purchased the license to do so via those libraries. I saw this on Tumblr where one person, possibly also on twitter, said that losing the archive would be like losing the library of Alexandria again. Fuckin' capitalism. Maybe go download your favourites, just in case)
Version 3 changes:
Added 1" height to CF for belly
Added 1" to CB for booty
Took in a larger dart
Cut a size 12 waistband at CB ONLY
Still needed to stitch it in closer to a size 10
Sewed in the pocket lining as a proper pocket to determine if it gapped or not (it does not)
Fit was much better. The waistband sits above my belly button now and nicely in my lower back. The front clearly shows drag lines still from my belly. I don't want to add any more height, so I've moved the bit that I raised back to it's previous position (just raised), which added about 5/8" in width. I've decided to split the single dart into two, and then will need to determine how that affects the side seam, because it's sitting really really really close to where it belongs.
Plus I might need to make some adjustments for thigh, because the fabric (admittedly a very light poly shirt/dress fabric from probably 1993) shows clearly where the thigh breaks. I'm telling you, I should have been tall! Stretch all these leg muscles out a few inches!
Still need some room around my ass, so I lengthened the crotch depth again, and the inseam by 3/4". Did NOT mirror those on the front, as I think it's pretty close to done? Maybe I should though, that might keep the front from pulling so hard over the belly. (I think I can stitch a spacer in the inseam on my current version rather than making a whole new mockup. Again.) Then, once the fit is good, I can transfer it to the pants version, and that WILL get a mockup because there might be some leg fit issues that will need adjustment too.
I really need to find my Fabricland gift certificates, at least one of which is 4 years old, because I really need to invest in some interfacing if I'm going to be making myself lots of pants. I saw an image while I was searching 1940s trouser patterns about using petersham in the waistband, but to the best of my knowledge, that was for a straight waistband, not a shaped one.
Tried on the Wearing History trousers from last summer, with the hem shortened and pinned up. Glad I haven't stitched it yet, because they rest on top of my foot, right at the ankle break. It feels so short! But is that my modern sensibilities? And they're so WIDE. Considering trying to nip them in a little before hemming.
Also finished stitching the velvet ribbon onto the hem! YAY! I tried it on in the living room with NONE of the layers under it, and it puddles a tiny bit yet. As soon as I get shoes on and a petticoat and the like, it should be fine. Just needs closures! I wanted to do snaps and a hook and bar, but I only have tiny snaps. Luckily I don't need to wear it anywhere yet.
Pants resources
While noodling about how to modify the shorts for more butt/thigh room, I remembered I had seen a period drafting guide from around 1900 about "corpulent" trousers (that is, big belly, not necessarily obesity). The first few I remembered I didn't find the information in, but then I DID find one. Direct page link.* The best thing I noted, in reading the drafting directions, was that in lifting the back, one should also extend the crotch depth seam by an equal amount, and blending it out down the leg. Juuust like I've been doing. I'm onto something!
*(also, they are currently under attack from publishers wanting to control how libraries distribute their materials, which the archive has also purchased the license to do so via those libraries. I saw this on Tumblr where one person, possibly also on twitter, said that losing the archive would be like losing the library of Alexandria again. Fuckin' capitalism. Maybe go download your favourites, just in case)
no subject
Date: 2022-07-11 06:43 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2022-07-11 10:01 pm (UTC)Glad to hear that you've been making fit adjustments that are confirmed by sources!
no subject
Date: 2022-07-12 05:26 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2022-07-12 05:11 pm (UTC)