It's Blazer Time!
Feb. 4th, 2023 01:57 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
totchipandaThe other week I was stymied by the missing bottom corner of the back pattern and an inability to decide on what fabric to use as a mock-up. Today I woke up after SIX UNBROKEN HOURS of sleep, which granted was at 5:30 am so I do plan to nap in a bit, and then after laying around for 4-ish hours, decided it was time. IT WAS TIME TO MAKE THIS BLAZER.
I used a washed cotton that was on the Kallax shelf, and I think I had intended to use it for a teens skirt, but as I was ironing it (boo hiss why did I do that to myself) it had some red staining. I probably washed it with something that bled more than expected. Anyway, got it all cut out and stitched and pressed, trying to make it all nice and pretty even for a mock-up because there's so much work that goes into tailoring, I want to make sure the fit issues are because of the fit and not because I didn't press it.
Of course there are fit issues lol. I expected it. I am using Closet Core's Jasika blazer because as pieces go it's very similar to the drafting manuals I was looking at. I cut a straight size 14 with the C-cup front pieces provided. (my sewing-size bust cup is at least a C, not the usual B drafts are made for, and it's not the same as a normal bra, bc of course it isn't.) I did not have shoulder pads in, nor was I wearing anything I might expect to be wearing under it (starting with a bra). Right away:
The back is too long. I pinned a ribbon along the waistline markings and it sags quite a bit at the back. It is also very wide across the shoulders and i could sometimes get it to stand 2-3 inches above my neck, but I will fix the back length before I make changes there.
The hip is too narrow. Or rather, my booty is too amazing. When it sits "normally" (with the too long waist), the vent gapes A LOT. When I pulled the waist up into place, it gaped less but still gaped. I expected this would be one issue I would have regardless.
The back overall is just a baggy mess. Again, not going to make any changes until I start with the length. But I don't want to over fit this either, and keeping in mind that my main project is going to be a quasi-Victorian cosplay, I don't need it to be so fitted. (Otherwise I could have just made a woman's suit lol)
I think the front is too wide too, particularly through the upper chest.
The sleeve was very snug through the bicep. I also found the armhole to be very low which I may need to work out.
then it was time for a break, so I have had lunch and wrote this post lol. When I get back to it, I will start by pinning up the back length and also try it with at least the corset on, and perhaps the waistcoat.
Speaking of the corset! I think it would be best if I took a wedge out of the back and added a gusset. I need to try it on again to be sure, but I think the fit was otherwise OK.
ETA: I pinned up the back approx 1" at the CB above the waist and tapered it out to the side-front seam and holy CRAP that improved the fit immensely. Then I put on the corset and waistcoat and tried it again and there's some new fit issues with that, but over all I really like it!
I used a washed cotton that was on the Kallax shelf, and I think I had intended to use it for a teens skirt, but as I was ironing it (boo hiss why did I do that to myself) it had some red staining. I probably washed it with something that bled more than expected. Anyway, got it all cut out and stitched and pressed, trying to make it all nice and pretty even for a mock-up because there's so much work that goes into tailoring, I want to make sure the fit issues are because of the fit and not because I didn't press it.
Of course there are fit issues lol. I expected it. I am using Closet Core's Jasika blazer because as pieces go it's very similar to the drafting manuals I was looking at. I cut a straight size 14 with the C-cup front pieces provided. (my sewing-size bust cup is at least a C, not the usual B drafts are made for, and it's not the same as a normal bra, bc of course it isn't.) I did not have shoulder pads in, nor was I wearing anything I might expect to be wearing under it (starting with a bra). Right away:
The back is too long. I pinned a ribbon along the waistline markings and it sags quite a bit at the back. It is also very wide across the shoulders and i could sometimes get it to stand 2-3 inches above my neck, but I will fix the back length before I make changes there.
The hip is too narrow. Or rather, my booty is too amazing. When it sits "normally" (with the too long waist), the vent gapes A LOT. When I pulled the waist up into place, it gaped less but still gaped. I expected this would be one issue I would have regardless.
The back overall is just a baggy mess. Again, not going to make any changes until I start with the length. But I don't want to over fit this either, and keeping in mind that my main project is going to be a quasi-Victorian cosplay, I don't need it to be so fitted. (Otherwise I could have just made a woman's suit lol)
I think the front is too wide too, particularly through the upper chest.
The sleeve was very snug through the bicep. I also found the armhole to be very low which I may need to work out.
then it was time for a break, so I have had lunch and wrote this post lol. When I get back to it, I will start by pinning up the back length and also try it with at least the corset on, and perhaps the waistcoat.
Speaking of the corset! I think it would be best if I took a wedge out of the back and added a gusset. I need to try it on again to be sure, but I think the fit was otherwise OK.
ETA: I pinned up the back approx 1" at the CB above the waist and tapered it out to the side-front seam and holy CRAP that improved the fit immensely. Then I put on the corset and waistcoat and tried it again and there's some new fit issues with that, but over all I really like it!
