totchipanda: (Default)
Side track: I mentioned my possibly inactive yeast in the last post - I check the jar, and it was best before around the time that the kittens were born, and they are almost 2 years old (laugh-crying emoji)

Around this time last year I was ankle deep in stay-making, so to continue the theme this year, I am once again ankle deep in stay making.

Regency stays

Cut the mock-up of the long stays in size M. The fabric is a thick twilled cotton something, I think actually too heavy for stays. I used the pink thread I'd sewed the short stays with, and it blended in so well that it was really hard to see. I left the front gusset seams open and cut the side gusset slit open. Stitched on my lacing strips and got laced in (rather poorly, my cord wasn't nearly long enough) and tucked the paint stick down the front to mimic the busk.

Needs more room in the back hip and across the front belly. I laced down tightly to get an even gap and that was not ideal. The first gusset area didn't gap much, though the side gusset did. The front got a big ol' wrinkle right at the waist. The bust dug into my belly and though it wasn't uncomfortable for the few minutes I wore it, I can't imagine it will be at all fine when I've been wearing it for a few hours.

Victorian Corset

Put this one back on to test the length again, and it is good. I will be dropping the upper edge half an inch, tested by removing the pokey boning and moving my arm with the edge as-is and with it tucked under, and I preferred it tucked under. I think I still need a little room in the hip, as the side-back waist area was a little wrinkly. I knew this was a problem before, and I was considering adding a gore there. My seams have already been cut, so I was thinking of putting in a gore/gusset.

Edwardian Corset

Tried this one on too for assessment. Hard to tie up as the cord was extremely slippery and by then Calcifer was "helping". The bust is SO big but the waist is snug and the hips need more room, so this needs further thought. I can use the Victorian corset or even the Rilla corset in the mean time (you know, for all of that Edwardian costuming i'm about to do (eyeroll)) This is the Black Snail pattern, so I need to assess if I can adjust this any way, or go for a different one entirely.
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Another sleepless night where I woke up after I should have left for work already *yawwwwn*. Calcifer did the thing where she darted out in front of me as I tried to leave the room and then stopped dead and hesitated, making me almost step on her. Kitten, move your adorable fuzzy little BUTT RIGHT NOW.

Friday was a total write off, but I did cut out and stitch a mock-up of the short stays. I cut an XL body and XXL gussets. Just holding it up on me, the back was overlapping, so the next day I stitched the seams another 1/4" in to approximate an L. Even put grommets in! That was much better, but the backs still touched and it was a little loose, over all.

Saturday I woke up and I felt like I needed to do some running around. Namely to pick up my brain meds, as I was nearly out of one and totally out of the other. Then I went to the thrift store bc it was literally 2 blocks away, where I found the case of a 1950s Singer buttonholer, which had a few of the dies and the plate cover, but not the attachment itself. Someone had opened a bag of thread and stuffed the bag and a few spools inside. It was the green case so not the one I need (I think; I've seen that the pink one has the slant shank attachment. I already have 2 1940s straight shank attachments), and I left it behind. Then I went to the grocery that was nearby rather than the one I normally go to, partly because I wanted to price-compare. A lot of the things I wanted were only slightly more expensive than the other store, sometimes by a matter of cents. It was fine, and suited my needs and energy levels. DONE.

At home, I forget how it happened but I found some strips of coutil that I'd cut for the Victorian corset I made in 2021 and I wondered where the remainder of the fabric was. There wasn't enough for a full corset or stay, but there would be PLENTY for a short stay! So I moved some boxes, which got the corner where I wanted to put one of the sewing machines open, moved that, found the fabric, reorganized the boxes, went and cut the short stay. I took a bit off my L pieces to approximate an M and cut XL gussets. Then I went and TOOK MY TIME (gasp who am i!) to SERGE THE RAW EDGES (GASP) and stitched away.

It is... OK size wise. I can lace it pretty snugly and still have a gap. I only have that one perfectly sized spiral steel and no short-enough straights, nor any sturdy enough plastic bones. I found one singular cable tie that is considered heavy duty without being the REALLY heavy duty type, but only enough for a couple of the seam channels. I did put the heavy heavy duty one in the front as the busk type, but I had bent over to get a dress out of the bin and that little bit immediately got pinched as my tummy moved. That was not a mood and makes me think a long stay will be more ideal in terms of getting the *perfect* silhouette. I need to add the boning before I can bind it, and it was rather late in the evening by then, so I put it down for the time being.

Also had pulled out aforementioned Victorian corset and changed many of the not-heavy-duty cable ties for straight steels and tried it on. I was sitting down, which helped to immediately adjust the bottom edge. The pattern was Truly Victorian and has a straight bottom, which would work OK if it was much shorter than it is but on me it is much too long. I pinned the adjusted edge in place and stuffed the bust improver in the front, which filled out the bust area and made me giggle. I love ridiculous underwear. Will need to use shorter steels in those channels now too, but that is a project for future me.

Yesterday I got up SO LATE after waking up far too early, and decided to bake! I made orange cranberry bread (but I took it out too soon, so the structural integrity is lacking) and bread. The orange loaf is delicious, the bread did not turn out well and I'm not sure if it's because I had too little batter in too large a pan, or if my yeast didn't activate. It is very old by now, so I will get new yeast and try again. The resulting loaf was short and dense, but tasty and edible. That all took 2 hours, so by the time I was done, I was DONE. I pulled out some really thick cotton canvas to make a mock up of the long stay, but decided (with Calcifer's help) that I should wait until I could print off the M pattern.

I am trying to think of my winter slow-down in an intentional way, so I decided that I was very productive already (two baking projects AND a pan of dishes AND scooped the cat box) and I would now rest. I put on a show and knitted until dinner time. After dinner I took a shower and laid around in bed, where I was awake until 3am and then slept through my 6am alarm and was late for work, whoops.

Tonight I hope to cut another mockup. I'm curious to see how the M body will work with the gussets (which I will cut open but not place yet). Get my show on again and knit some more. Cross stitch. A nice cozy end of December evening <3

*blink*

Dec. 27th, 2024 07:57 am
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I basically didn't sleep last night. My list of grievances is long, including ambient lighting thanks to low clouds full of moisture (it was starting to snow when I left the house), my neighbour's porch light shining in at JUST the right angle to not be blocked by the blinds and in the direct middle of the head of my bed, AKA prime Face Shining Into spots across the entire thing, hot flashes and shedding of clots, my hair and every little bit of fluff touching me, my bedsheets being Too Wrinkly, and my pillows being Too Tall and Fluffy. It is going to be a very, very, VERY long day.

I first wrote Saturday bc Wednesday felt like Saturday! Did all my driving about, and our friends got a new puppy!! They had one dog, Darcy, left after Charlotte passed in September, and he is 11.5. They thought he was lonely (he probably was, he'd been part of a pack for the vast majority of his life) and the universe said hello, would you like this doggo? His name is Watson (as in Dr John Watson), he is 10 months old, and he is a Cavalier King Charles spaniel just like Darcy! His family had three kids, the youngest being 3.5 years old, and they were on the go a lot and felt like he needed a home that better suited his energy levels and social needs. From everything my friends said, the family really was trying their best! The kids were sad, but the parents had explained to them why Watson needed a new home and they wanted to find the BEST home for him. I guess they had talked to a few other people, but when my friend called, they talked for 5 hours. She has a home-based business and is home all day all the time (summer might be tricky with the markets she does, but that's a future problem), they have a Cavalier already, and if that wasn't enough, Watson's birthday is three days before hers. It was SO WONDERFUL to have a puppy in their house again! He was already taught some excellent manners and they still had all the BarkBox toys that the older dogs just weren't interested in. Watson had been there for a whopping 48 hours and he was a little unsure of us to start, but took everything in stride.

Yesterday I lumped around the house, including "pangolin"-ing in an effort to not spend my *entire* day trapped under the kittens. Ended up cleaning off the table so I could tape together some patterns not on the floor. I tried to knit but every time I just picked up the bag, suddenly they were RIGHT THERE. I am SO ANNOYED that on a row I counted three times, I had 2 extra stitches so I increased 2 less on the next row, only to get to the end of the section and discover that I'm now 2 stitches short. Played video games for a bit. Had a nap, RIP my sleep schedule!

In the evening I cut out a mock up for the Redthreaded Regency stays, in the short version to start. I definitely need to make them for real, because I have precisely TWO spiral steel stays in precisely the correct length for the seam they're meant to go in. I started with an XL body and XXL bust gussets, and while I like the gusset depth, I will need to make the L body as the XL just touches in back without me putting in grommets or proper lacing, held over a tank top and overshirt. The long stays will need more finagling particularly through the waist, and I didn't want to fuss with that just yet.

Very glad today is the only day left in the week and I have very little to actually do. The brain power is non-existent.
totchipanda: (Default)
Absolutely nothing done on the weekend, I was feeling very run down and sitting up on the couch felt difficult, so I put myself to bed and stayed there. A little cross stitching completed over the week, the interior belt is now sewn on to the skirt, and I started a test knit. That's it, that's the post!

Kinda lies too, I have Wednesday/Thursday off, although Wednesday being The Big Holiday (tm) day, I am always running around. Friend is having me look in on her cat, M and I are going to our friends' house out of town, and I'll try to make time for my aunt and family too. But Thursday! Thursday will be for glorious hiding at home and ignoring my responsibilities for one more day.

I was watching sewing videos on the weekend and I just want to sew something. The skirt is boring me right now even though really, it's almost done (needs the waistline covered, hooks sewn on, hemmed, decorative buttons, and an exterior belt). I just pulled a paper from the plastic cup and it looks like Redthreaded's Regency stays are up next!
totchipanda: (Default)
By all things blessed and holy, there are events this fall! (wipes away happy tears) My local group is hosting the ball in September, and then my trip in November was planned specifically to coincide with another ball. The only thing I have made is one single dress that already needs to be fixed (the sleeves are in the wrong spot) and everything else was pre-panini so... I'm pretty much just going to start over.

First decision was: what gender do I want to present. I've been wanting to make menswear for myself for awhile, but I really don't mind womenswear when all the layers are needed, so I am leaning towards a dress.

Second decision: dress style. The Bridgerton show had not come out yet at my last ball so I am expecting A LOT MORE SHINY at these upcoming ones. I've done the long column look and I've done some round gowns, and given my new interest in dressing for my body type (theatrical romantic), I want to do a more 1790s transitional look, with a little lower of a waistline than directly under my boobs. (Someday an English court gown, with the side hoops because they are *so* ridiculous, but as my love pointed out, it would likely make dancing difficult lol.) So I am looking at a floofy floofy dress, most likely in white, with a coloured bodice, gown, or sommat over top. It will be FLOOFY and it will be LORG and probably very TALL with feathers (or perhaps not, I found a turban look with only two squiggles of hair at the front, which I could easily do with my natural hair) and hopefully SPARKLY. My only requirement is no train, because that DOES make dancing difficult.

Third decision: New stays! I've been wanting to do this for awhile anyway, so here we go. My last pair was made with Laughing Moon's pattern, which is excellent but as most things for me, too wide on the shoulder. No wait, lies, my last semi-regency pair was inspired by [personal profile] chocolatepot's Cherry Hill stays, which I mucked around with too much and they ended up being too small. And since these bits are all 5+ years old, I'm not even going to bother trying things on.

Options of which I own/have access to/are free:
Laughing Moon remake (long or short)
Cherry Hill remake/similar style drafted from a body block
Bernhardt stays
Corsets & Crinolines (Is there anything in here? IDK, I have access to it)
Saying heck with it and using a later prow-front stay, like Augusta.
I might still have the RH stays pattern kicking around (go ahead and laugh. I'll wait.)

Options I do not own:
There are many more options available now that were not available 5+ years ago, both for sale and for free, and they are easy to find. Go forth and behold.

Of the readily available options, I am most interested in the Bernhardt stays and redoing Cherry Hill. And potentially Augusta, especially if I can repurpose one of the pairs I already made. (If I can even find them.) (Yeah ok, that's not really an option right now.) I was thrilled to get a projector *specifically* for ease of scaling up the Bernhardt. Potentially... it's not the look I want for a 1790s dress.

Decisions 4-7 to make after stays are at least under way:
New shift? (Finish the ones I started which will need some work bc they are WAY too open in the neckline?)
Dress style + fabric + decorations
Over-item style + fabric
Hair and accessories

I think a month should be enough time to get the stays sorted out, so that's what I will work towards. Everything else will come after!

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