Bastard of the Barrel Suit
Jul. 19th, 2021 07:52 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
totchipandaI've mentioned before that I'm still low-key into Shadow and Bone fandom. Really it's more Six of Crows at this point, I still haven't ready the trilogy. Mostly I follow a single ship tag on tumblr/Ao3, and randomly found an 18+ discord server to join (where I am the oldest person by several years, and possibly one of the only Canadians). One of the fic authors I've been following joined as well, where she's been talking about the things she's been writing for this ship. I enjoy it a lot bc she's chosen 1890s as the "target" range for historical-fantasy clothing for the main male character, who canonically wears wool suits like an upstanding gentleman (he is anything but).
We struck a deal the other day, where I was challenged to make a full three-piece suit in exchange for a smut fic. She thinks this deal is very unbalanced, I think it's a decent trade-off lol. I offered to do it on one of the really old machines, but the only one that works reliably is James (I think - Louisa doesn't have an original bobbin case and I'm still too scared to try Eleanor's dodgy electricals), and she said I "didn't need to go full Bernadette Banner" lol.
So I am currently in the process of making up a suit. I've been wanting to try my hand at tailoring and menswear for awhile now, and I will get smut out of it. I did warn her that I am also trying to do the Whole 30 challenge, and so I won't have a strictly black suit, but I do have suit-appropriate fabrics in my stash. The only hard element I need to include is a detachable collar. I am tailoring this for myself.
So first things first, underwear. Also in keeping with the Whole 30, I made a mock-up out of the last bits of canvas fabric from IKEA (not enough left to make another corset/stay with, now), and then cut out the "real" deal from the peach coutil I bought at Costume College in 2017 (USE THE GOOD FABRIC). Right now it is largely assembled, aside from the CF panel with spoon-busk installed. I hammered 28 grommets yesterday, and now need to decide how to handle the boning channels. I made it up with the seams pressed to the outside, so do I cover them over and insert double bones along them? Flat-fell them and put channels where they seem most appropriate? Might need to peruse some museum examples today.
Next up will be undies. I want a new pair of combos, I think. Also thinking about a corset cover bc A: my corset is peach. B: it should help blur the lines of my figure (if I was living in the era and trying to get people to take me seriously, it would help if they didn't automatically dismiss me bc boobs)
Then it will be fun tailoring times! I found some late-90s drafting and tailoring manuals on archive.org. I've considered getting Laughing Moon's pants pattern (what happened to their ladies' fit?!) but drafting my own will help accommodate my booty from the start. I do have their frock coat and vest pattern, though it is not the same type of frock coat from the show. Thanks, set photo for showing that, bc the show is so DARK and it's BLACK so the lines are hard to see. Not to mention, boobs and booty. I did find some references to a ladies jacket of a similar type, so I will be looking into that as well.
I have a large-ish amount of black pin-stripe lightweight wool that will be the main fabric of the suit. I thought to do a plain coat, of which I have likely just enough of my riding habit fabric to make, but perhaps I will stick to the pinstripe? For one thing, the colours are just different enough to be very noticeable. I also have some of the grey blend left from the riding habit that could be made into a weskit, and that will probably be made up first for some practice.
Honestly I'm really excited for this project. I've been considering tailoring and menswear for myself for awhile now, and this was just the perfect excuse at the right time to do it. I'm going to need to conquer welted pockets after my last disastrous attempt 10 years ago. Yessssss.
We struck a deal the other day, where I was challenged to make a full three-piece suit in exchange for a smut fic. She thinks this deal is very unbalanced, I think it's a decent trade-off lol. I offered to do it on one of the really old machines, but the only one that works reliably is James (I think - Louisa doesn't have an original bobbin case and I'm still too scared to try Eleanor's dodgy electricals), and she said I "didn't need to go full Bernadette Banner" lol.
So I am currently in the process of making up a suit. I've been wanting to try my hand at tailoring and menswear for awhile now, and I will get smut out of it. I did warn her that I am also trying to do the Whole 30 challenge, and so I won't have a strictly black suit, but I do have suit-appropriate fabrics in my stash. The only hard element I need to include is a detachable collar. I am tailoring this for myself.
So first things first, underwear. Also in keeping with the Whole 30, I made a mock-up out of the last bits of canvas fabric from IKEA (not enough left to make another corset/stay with, now), and then cut out the "real" deal from the peach coutil I bought at Costume College in 2017 (USE THE GOOD FABRIC). Right now it is largely assembled, aside from the CF panel with spoon-busk installed. I hammered 28 grommets yesterday, and now need to decide how to handle the boning channels. I made it up with the seams pressed to the outside, so do I cover them over and insert double bones along them? Flat-fell them and put channels where they seem most appropriate? Might need to peruse some museum examples today.
Next up will be undies. I want a new pair of combos, I think. Also thinking about a corset cover bc A: my corset is peach. B: it should help blur the lines of my figure (if I was living in the era and trying to get people to take me seriously, it would help if they didn't automatically dismiss me bc boobs)
Then it will be fun tailoring times! I found some late-90s drafting and tailoring manuals on archive.org. I've considered getting Laughing Moon's pants pattern (what happened to their ladies' fit?!) but drafting my own will help accommodate my booty from the start. I do have their frock coat and vest pattern, though it is not the same type of frock coat from the show. Thanks, set photo for showing that, bc the show is so DARK and it's BLACK so the lines are hard to see. Not to mention, boobs and booty. I did find some references to a ladies jacket of a similar type, so I will be looking into that as well.
I have a large-ish amount of black pin-stripe lightweight wool that will be the main fabric of the suit. I thought to do a plain coat, of which I have likely just enough of my riding habit fabric to make, but perhaps I will stick to the pinstripe? For one thing, the colours are just different enough to be very noticeable. I also have some of the grey blend left from the riding habit that could be made into a weskit, and that will probably be made up first for some practice.
Honestly I'm really excited for this project. I've been considering tailoring and menswear for myself for awhile now, and this was just the perfect excuse at the right time to do it. I'm going to need to conquer welted pockets after my last disastrous attempt 10 years ago. Yessssss.
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