totchipanda

I think I need to name this project lol. Like my red dress called "Esmerelda".

I finished the petticoat on Thursday evening. On Friday, I played in the sewing room for a bit to try and get a mock up of the bodice finished, and finalized my choices.

Ver 1: Did a narrow shoulder adjustment from my cotton sacque pattern (2018). Not the best results, still too tight in the armscye. I noted that the front was not wide enough, and started modifying my pattern piece (which was my second one that I made to photograph how to do a small bust adjustment on it) but didn't get too far.

Ver 2: used the Amalia jacket pattern. Not super successful, but did help me identify some areas that could be adjusted. Needed more width through the belly. I had widened the strap, but took most of it back out. Small curve needed on the chest.

Ver 3: (Saturday morning) I tried on V.1 again, with stays this time, and took note of how much I wanted to adjust it by. I traced a copy of the SBA and narrow shoulder adjusted pattern first, and then did the full belly adjustment on it kind of arbitrarily. Smoothed out the waist curve, took an inch off the sleeve side of the shoulder strap, and cut a new mock up. And it was great! I still needed some adjustment for the shoulder strap, but its the kind of thing that can be done at the seam. I also decided to take 1/2" out at the top of center back where I was getting a bubble, but I went ahead and cut that straight on my finished lining, so we'll see how that goes.

Onwards! I cut linen, took it upstairs to sew (the basement is coooold, and Saturday morning started out at -2F). So far every single stitch is done by hand. Lining got made, ties got added, fashion front got attached. Of course, I cut the fashion fabric out at least 2 years ago, from my 2018 pattern. I put it on as best as I could, and then pieced in some scrap to fill in the space. It was probably unnecessary, since there will be trim on top of it, but I feel better having done it.

Sunday was the backs! I spent probably 2 hours figuring out the best way to put the pleats down (including a couple coffee breaks). Stitched those down, did the herringbone tacking, the side back seams, and then started the seams for the front skirts.

And bc I cut this all out 2 years ago, I have NO IDEA what I was thinking of when I cut the front skirts. The sides are off by at least 3", and I don't know if that's intentional or not. But I discovered that around 9:30 pm, so it was time to call it a night. This needs to be put on Josephine (the mannequin) to assess whether or not I need to piece in more fabric or not.

Trucking along. I think I could be done by the end of March, sans the loop trim.

New printer is arriving either late next week or the week after. Very exciting!

I made a short hoop last week for my silk sacque, which I have decided is my next project. I cut it out at least a year and a half ago, so it's time. I wanted the trim in before I started, and even ordered it last year, but it was when Covid was ripping through the Eurasian continent but not North America, and the seller I was buying from was not able to ship inexpensively from Thailand to Canada. I wasn't about to pay $30 US in shipping costs to have $20 worth of trim, and it's been a year now. I'm just gonna start. Adding it later will be a pain, but eh.

Since then, I've received my "good work, self!" gift to myself, Patterns of Fashion 5! The short hoop i was emulating was included and patterned in it. Yessssssss. I used plumbing tubing for the hoop, but it's very stiff and hard to work with, so I will not be using it in the final. Do you want a circle? You can have a circle. Do you want an oval? Well.. you can have a circle!

I had also mocked up a lining for the sacque, trying to sort out my sleeve and shoulder issues. My cotton one drags off the point of my shoulder by around an inch. I tried to take it out the "proper" way by narrowing the pattern but... I doubt I did it right, since the directions I used were for a pattern that sits on top of the shoulder and not behind it like this one. Super tight in the arm, and the whole thing angles back. If I pull the waist into place, I get wicked drag lines. Back to the drawing board.

This week my roommate and I watched all three To All the Boys I Loved Before movies, one per night. It was nice to have a movie marathon like that. And the series is so sweet.

I also decided to rip out a shawl I had been working on but hadn't touched in months. The designer already has my money from the pattern, but she's shown her ass online and I no longer follow her or will support her going forward. I thought (and still am) about designing my own pattern but... it took me MONTHS to design the last one, and I don't love the result. We'll see. I think I'll start a different pattern in the meantime.